Nyungwe Forest is a great option for a weekend trip from Kigali – easy to organize, beautiful scenery, and relatively affordable.  The windy drive through the park is stunning (if you can take your eyes off the potholed road) as you drive on the ridge among huge trees and lush canopy forests, with views out over deep valleys. And the well-maintained hikes take you down into the forest canopy, which gives the aura of being prehistoric and remote. It’s a good bet that someone in your group will make a Fern Gully reference.

Nyungwe is wide – over an hour to drive from one end to the other – so take that into account for planning hikes and accommodations.  The near end is about an hour and half from Butare (4 hours from Kigali), and the far end is almost to Cyangugu and the DRC border.  There are a couple lodging options for different price ranges, including a campsite area among trees and monkeys.

Driving through the park, we saw plenty of baboons and black-and-white mountain monkeys, along with some interesting birds. We didn’t see nearly as much wildlife during our hikes, as supposedly it’s harder to see things when you’re under the tall canopy.  But we did have monkeys around our campsite in the morning, including an unknown evil-looking grey monkey and two mountain monkeys getting monkey-busy.

One word of advice: this is a RAIN forest! We went in mid-June, leaving sunny Kigali in shorts and t-shirts. It ended up dumping rain throughout one of our hikes and also most of the night, and we were soaked.

Lodging

Over halfway through the park (coming from Kigali) is the Uwinka visitor centre, with some forest info and where you can book hikes and activities. The campsite is also here, with a number of sites set in small private clearings. We were the only people camping on a Saturday and opted for a remote site a couple hundred meters down a dirt path. Each site has a covered concrete hut for a cooking fire and eating, and they’ll even send a guy to start your fire in the evening and morning. There’s also a decent bathroom, and I think they offered to warm up water for showers if we wanted.  The camping fee is $30 per person per night if you’re also paying for hikes ($20 for residents), and $50 ($30 for residents) otherwise.

The 2 other lodging (and eating) options are a couple kilometres outside the park on the west side, 30 minutes from Uwinka. The new Nyungwe Forest Lodge, in the middle of a tea plantation, looks super nice and gets good reviews. But rooms are $175 a night per person (I’ll never get this per person charging policy) including all meals. 2 km west is the ORTPN Resthouse (aka Gisakura Guesthouse), which seemed basic with shared bathrooms, but decent and only $50 a night for a room with a double bed.  This ends up being cheaper than camping – but it’s a lot less character building than sleeping in a puddle in a leaky tent. Right next door is the other visitor centre where hikes can be arranged.

Hikes

There are different hike options from the Uwinka and Gisakura visitor centres, and you pay by the hike distance. The best option for a weekend trip is two hikes for $70 per person ($55 for residents). You are required to take a guide and someone to watch your car on each hike, which is included in the cost. Most start a few kms from the visitor centres and they don’t have their own transportation, so we had to cram five of us + guide + car watcher into our rented RAV 4 to get to the trailhead.

From Uwinka, there are a number of hikes of different lengths that used be named after colours but have been renamed.  There’s also a sketchy-looking canopy walk high above a valley, but it’ll set you back $60. We arrived to Uwinka Saturday at 1pm and immediately set off on the Umugote (blue) hike, which is supposed to have the highest chance of seeing monkeys and birds. Unfortunately, it started pouring right when we set out and never let up, so we got drenched and the animals were in hiding. But it’s a really nice hike through dense forest with a ton of ferns. It took about 3.5 hours to do the loop and 1.5 hours to dry out blasting the car heater.

After camping Saturday night, we drove to the Gisakura visitor centre in the morning to do the highly recommended 4-hour Waterfall Trail. Despite seeing little wildlife, it’s got spectacular views of hidden valleys and the trees of the canopy, and the 14-meter waterfall didn’t disappoint.

You can also do chimp tracking for $90 ($70 for residents), but you need to leave around 5 am and they cautioned us that it’s not guaranteed to catch up to these hyper chimps.

Transportation

The drive from Kigali is straightforward – the only turn is a right at a small sign just before Butare.  The road is paved the whole way, but the potholes start from Butare and get worse and worse as you go west through the park. We got a flat on a nasty pothole, so make sure you have a spare tire.

The trip looks like it can be coupled with Kibuye/Gisenyi/Ruhengeri by driving up the road bordering Lake Kivu, but it would be a mission because that road is really bad.

Taking the bus actually seems doable, but you’d be limited on your hike options.  You could take the Cyangugu bus all the way to the Gitarama visitor centre, start the waterfall hike from there (an extra 30 minutes walk through the tea plantation to get to the trailhead), and then stay at one of the 2 lodges. Or, get off at Uwinka, do one of the hikes near there, and camp. For the bus back, best to buy a seat in Kigali for the Sotra Tours Cyangugu-Kigali bus, and then wait on the side of the road at the right time to try to flag it down.

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Sowarthe is a couple of hours drive outside Kigali and a great place to come for a night or two of relaxation, tea drinking, and possibly tennis, if that’s your thing. You can call 0788 300 532 to book or for more information.

Getting There

The tea plantation is located in Kinihira which is down a 19km reasonably well-maintained dirt road. Turn right a couple of kilometres after Nyirangarama and follow the signs. The drive to Nyirangarama takes about an hour and the dirt road is another 45 minutes or so. If you want a bit of adventure you can take a bus to Nyirangarama and then take a moto the last stretch. It’d be a pretty hairy moto ride though… so not for the feint of heart.

My housemates and I attempted this trip one weekend only to find ourselves stranded on the side of the road for eight hours after our car decided to stop cooperating. We broke down just outside of Nyirangarama and the local mechanics… well… I don’t know anything about cars but they fiddled around with our fuel pump (including sucking on it while some guy who was hanging around was sipping on a bottle of gasoline for no reason) for six hours without fixing a thing. Then some Kigali mechanics came to our rescue, identified the problem immediately (the timing belt… whatever that is) and towed us back home. So this isn’t the best place to have a breakdown. Just saying.

The guys at Sorwathe were well aware of our car troubles and were great. They helped us find a Kigali mechanic and one of their guys stopped at the side of the road (he was driving back from Kigali himself) and waited while the mechanics sorted us out. They let us reschedule (we had pre-paid for our stay) without any hassle.

Accommodation

Sorwathe have a guesthouse right there on the grounds and if you’re there to chill out then it’s probably the best place to stay. I saw an Auberge just outside the plantation gates but it didn’t look like the sort of place you’d go to relax. It was more of the kind of place you’d go to be detained. but I could be wrong. Rooms start at Rwf 35,000 for one person or Rwf 40,000 for two. A triple costs Rwf 70,000. I’ve written a review of the Sorwathe Guest House so instead of repeating myself (nobody wants that), check it out.

Activities

This is a tea plantation. So drinking tea and other tea-related activities are obvious choices for things to do to keep busy. The plantation grounds are beautiful and stretch on and on into the valley. They’ve got plenty of tea on offer so sample a few before heading out to enjoy the day. We were there on a Sunday and a national holiday so there wasn’t any action in the factory. I’m not sure if you can do tours but this could be something to ask about.

The area is gorgeous and going for a long walk is another way to fill some time. I think you need to leave the Guest House’s grounds to be able to fully explore, though. We headed back out the front gate and walked through the town up a hill before doubling back on a path we found through the forest. Our efforts at walking through the tea were thwarted by the rain, but if you get a nice day and give yourself plenty of time, you could really have a nice wander through lush, green tea plants.

Then there’s the aforementioned tennis. For some reason they’ve decided to put a clay tennis court in front of their guesthouse. No grass, no pool, no garden… tennis. So if you’re into playing, you can rent the court for Rwf 2,000 but bring your own equipment. They’ve also got mini golf (again, bring your own equipment… and who doesn’t travel with putters and golf balls, these days?), table tennis, darts and badminton for the sporty, tea-drinker types out there.

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I’ll admit, it took me well over a year to actually make it up to Ruhengeri (Musanze) to do gorilla trekking, but if you are a normally functioning person (meaning you’re able to leave Kigali without crying uncontrollably), you should definitely try to schedule a trip. The mountain gorillas really are one of Rwanda’s most spectacular tourist attractions, and being able to observe them in their natural habitat is quite the experience.  Also, they are an endangered species, people, and what you pay to go see them goes into protecting them, which is like a super nice thing!

There are four main things you need to think about when planning on gorilla trekking: a gorilla permit, a place to stay in Ruhengeri, a car to take you to the starting point for the trekking, and what to bring with you for the trek itself.

Getting a Gorilla Permit

Gorilla-related tourism in Rwanda is strictly controlled by the government. What this means to you is this: you can get nowhere near the gorillas unless you have a permit. When you arrange a trip through a tour company they’ll get the permit for you but if you want to wing it and arrange a trip on your own, you’ll need to get your own gorllia trekking permit at the ORTPN (I still have no idea what this stands for but they’re the Rwanda Tourism office). They have offices in Kigali (up the hill to the left from UTC) and in Musanze.

You should buy a permit in good time before you plan on going, as they might be sold-out, but they’re not known for being very good at answering emails so it might not be possible to get one directly from them until you arrive in Rwanda. It’s common for people to sell passes they can’t use for one reason or another so keep your eye on our travel forum for gorilla permits for sale. For non-residents, a permit costs US$500, foreign residents (meaning you have a work visa) pay US$250, and Rwandans pay Rwf 25,000.

Accommodation in Ruhengeri

Unless you want to get up at the ass-crack of dawn to drive from Kigali, you’ll have to spend the night previous in Ruhengeri as gorilla trekking starts earl in the morning. There are several places to stay, but the most popular for those on a budget, is Fatima Guesthouse (0392 897 704/0779 459 917) which is Rwf 15,000 to 30,000 per night. We’ll post some more options as we visit them. Eventually. In the meantime, if you know of a good place, let us know.

Transportation to Trekking Point

You’ll need to arrange transportation from your hotel to the trekking point, and it’s annoyingly expensive. If you have a car (or rent your own for a few days), you can just follow the guide car, but make sure you have four-wheel drive or you’ll struggle up the muddy roads.

The second option, is hiring a driver. The best option is to find a driver with a car specifically for gorilla trekking, stationed in Ruhengeri. You can get contact information from the ORTPN office, and it’ll cost US$80 to $100.  The driver will pick you up from your hotel in Ruhengeri, drive you to the meeting point, and then bring you back at the end of the trekking.

I’ve also heard of people just arriving at the centre by whatever means necessary (taxi, moto) with hopes of hopping in someone else’s car to get to the trek starting point. It’s been done but if there’s no space for you or if the people on your trek are jerks who won’t let you share, then you’ll have to scramble to come up with another plan.

Gorilla Trekking

On the day of the trekking, you’ll drive (or be driven) to the meeting point around 7am. I suggest wearing good hiking boots, and dressing in layers. The day we went, it was cold and raining in the morning and hot and sunny once we met the gorillas. Obviously, bring a camera but remember to turn off the flash. Don’t pack any food on you, though if you bring a backpack you can leave it with some of the guides and they’ll guard it while you’re in the forest. Also bring sun lotion, sunglasses, and water. You might have to walk for a while before you actually enter the dense forest, and these things will be good to have with you.

And of course, don’t forget your gorilla permit! You will need to show this in order to register with your group in the morning.  Normally there are around 20 to 30 people trekking on the same day, but you’ll be divided into 4 to 5 smaller groups, each one heading to different gorilla families so as not to stress out the poor gorillas by unleashing 30 people on them at once.

Before you head off into the forest, the guides will give you a quick gorilla lesson, as well as some tea and coffee. Part of this includes orders not to stray to within 7 feet of the gorillas which is very loosely policed since they’ll often wander right across your path. From the orientation, your group will head to the starting point of the trekking. Usually the guides have some idea of where to find the family, but it can still take a few hours before you’ll reach them. When I went it took no more than 20 minutes, and we spent the rest of the time just following them around.

The whole trekking takes about 4 hours, and to be honest that’s enough. A gorilla’s day pretty much consists of eating and napping, and then walking a bit, and then eating again. Though it’s awesome being so close to these wild animals (as well as walking around in the serene rain forest), a couple of hours are sufficient. You’ll be back in town in time for lunch unless you have to walk awhile to find them and it could be later.

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“I just needed to get out of Kigali for a bit” is a phrase you’ll hear often, usually from expats working too hard on projects that are going nowhere. Or, I guess, people who like lakes. Personally, I’ve taken the trip up to Gisenyi many a time, usually to study the life cycle of the endangered Kivu cabbage caterpillar (though admittedly I often end up by the pool at Serena, charging champagne and cheese cake to some random room).

Gisenyi is about a three and a half hour bus ride from Kigali (it’ll take you less than three hours in your own car), and is thus perfect for a weekend get-away. You can buy tickets from any bus company in town (my favorite is Belvedere next to Shake and Sip), and since it’s a rather popular destination, I’d suggest you get the tickets the day before you go. Just to be on the safe side, which is a grand side to be on indeed.

From the bus stop in Gisenyi, you can easily get a taxi or moto to wherever you’re spending the night. The Serena hotel is actually within walking distance, just down the hill. The budget option is the Catholic hostel, literally right next to the bus stop. If you, like me, prefer a more secluded setting, may I propose Paradis Malahide Guesthouse? It’s about a 15 minutes moto ride from town (Rwf 700), and you end up outside of the main town, by the Bralirwa brewery. It’s Rwf 40,000 for a double room, and an extra Rwf 15,000 if you put in an extra mattress. This includes breakfast.

The water at Paradis is cleaner, the trees greener, and the birds happier. Also, the guesthouse’s restaurant has delicious fish served in a cozy intimate setting ― and after dinner you can enjoy your African tea by the bonfire! Plus they have wooden cutlery which is pretty god damned cool, if you ask me. Which you didn’t. But if you did.

For Rwf 30,000 you can hire a boat (with driver) to take you out to the wedding island (that might be a name I made up, I’m not sure), and then to some hot springs.  Okay, and don’t expect an Iceland-type geysir here, folks – it’s more like a little bird Jacuzzi.  But if you bring an egg you can totally boil it… and then eat it while watching the bathing birds and thinking of the irony of life.

Should you want to visit the brewery, you need to arrange a private tour by sending a letter or an e-mail to bralirwa@heineken.com.  In an effort to discover what goes into Turbo King, my sister and I once tried sneaking in, but were disappointed to discover that the tall metal fences were unaltered by our shampoo and baking soda explosive device. Damn you and your lies, MacGyver!

If you’re too lazy to get up to anything, just chill by the little private beach at Paradis, or head into town and hang at the Serena pool. And oh, I was totally joking about charging other people’s rooms – obviously the only way you’re getting freebies at Serena is if you flash your Caterpillar Appreciation Society membership card.

There are a few local bars in town, but the only proper nightclub is White Rocks, situated close to the DRC border, in the basement of a good Italian restaurant with the same name and owners. Come here for delicious pizzas, or a well-designed (though a tad pricey) three-course meal.

The last bus back to Kigali leaves at 18:30 and again, to be on the safe side, buy your tickets in advance.

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Unless you’ve accidentally stumbled upon this website, I’m guessing most of you reading this are living in Kigali. You know as well as I do that life here can be comfortable. It’s easy to stay connected to Western life and, for some, all too easy to disengage from  the real daily life of Rwanda.

Well just outside of Kigali there’s a great opportunity for you to connect to Rwanda in a cool way. Starting last September, Azizi Life in the Muhanga District began offering experience days to anyone interested in learning hands-on about rural life in Rwanda.

Azizi Life began a few years ago to help with trade and community development in Muhanga, working closely with 20 artisan cooperatives. Azizi Life noticed considerable customer interest in the lives of the artisans, so Azizi asked women from the cooperatives if they would be interested in sharing. The women planned a schedule that would give a good insight into their world. The first trials were met with great success and Azizi Life Experiences was born.

Three of the largest cooperatives of women all host experience days. Within the group, the women rotate hosting the curious visitors in their homes. The experience is an intimate opportunity to get to know some incredible women.

Azizi Life contacted Living in Kigali and I got a courtesy invite for myself and a friend to try an experience day and share it on the website. (Job perk!)

Before our day, we were told exactly what to expect so there were no surprises. Azizi Life emailed an itinerary and directions days ahead of time. On the day of, My friend and I were giddy with excitement – a day away from our computers and paperwork and Kigali – we always liked educational field trips.

A 7am bus from Nyambugogo got us to Muhanga by 8.

When we arrived at the Azizi Life office, we were given a safe place to lock our belongings and one last chance to use a toilet (on location there are only pit latrines).  Our translator introduced herself and briefed on us who we would be working with for the day; we were going to work with the 9 women of Abarikumwe, “People who are together.”

Azizi Life provided a lift to the host home, just 15 minutes away. We were greeted by the women who brought us inside to meet the family. Together, we sat in a cool, dark room illuminated only by a window and made our introductions: our names, our ages, our marital status, how many children we have… you know, the usual.

Even though my Kinyarwanda is basic, the women were friendly and chatty. Language barrier problems were nil with the help of our translator and of course a room full of cheerful ladies. It may seem funny to point out, but I think it’s important to tell you nothing about the experience felt phony or forced. We were a group of people simply enjoying each other’s company and learning about our very different lives. They were familiar from the start.

They wrapped us in Kitenge and head scarves and we were officially part of the group. After all, it was time to get to work.

Our first task was to light the fire in the kitchen so our midday meal would be ready on time. Half a box of matches later, we were ready to tear it up in the field. No pun intended, we tilled. We worked right behind the house on a hill, starting at the bottom and side-by-side, we worked our way up the grade. If you are wondering, the cultivating wasn’t all too strenuous. We worked at a slow and steady pace and were encouraged to stop whenever we wanted a rest.

After cultivating, we moved onto shelling beans. So much fun! I’ve always been a proponent of anything stationary and repetitious but the nicest part was more time to talk and share and laugh – A LOT! The good humor throughout the day made the experience even nicer.

The day was well organized. Dare I say, the most efficient day I’ve had in Rwanda ever? And it wasn’t rigid at all. Visitors are able to sit out of any activity they don’t want to do and there’s no pressure to strain yourself – only to enjoy learning from the women.

Up and moving again, we went on a beautiful walk through some fields to fetch water from the local well – ie. the sort of task some people may wish to sit out on. We hiked down a steep hill (the views were great) and luckily there was an easier way back up with full jerry cans in hand. The water was for the house; Azizi Life provided plenty of bottled water for us visitors.

We worked up our appetites and for lunch we all sat inside and enjoyed our meal of potatoes, beans, and avocados. Simple but delicious! I’d go just for the food again. And duly noted, during the formalization of the program, the women were given food handling training so no worries about sanitation (if you’re one of those people), just dig in.

The afternoon was my favorite part: crafts! Before beginning, we were taught the full process of making sisal crafts, starting from cutting the plant itself. My friend and I each had one-on-one instruction on how to make bracelets and earrings and in the end, got to keep what we made. I worked with a real spitfire, Alice. My utmost respect for sisal artisans – when you look at my earrings, it’s obvious which of the two I started.  But sorry, I won’t let you look that close.

Our day ended at 3 with goodbyes, thank-yous, song, and dance. Before you go out for your experience day, you better prepare a little ditty. The day was inclusive right to the very end and after the ladies sang and danced, we were asked to do so as well. Our Three Dog Night rendition was sub par but greatly appreciated anyway.

At the end, we were brought back to the Azizi Life office to gather our belongings, freshen up, and have a cold drink. Azizi Life sat down with us to hear about our day.  This wasn’t because we were a special case, but because they genuinely want to hear about each visitor’s experience and they were eager for our feedback. The thoughtfulness of Azizi Life was plain to see and we had nothing but good things to say about the day. I imagine that’s why their experience day program runs so smoothly – they’ve thought of it all.

I’m wholeheartedly recommending trying Azizi Life for yourself. Take a day away from the office to get your hands dirty in Rwanda. An experience day is the perfect solution to shuffling visiting friends and family around! They host big groups and make real life Rwanda accessible to everyone. As a bonus, an experience day helps provide disposable income to rural communities.

Cost: $70
Phone: 0785 781 146
Email: experiences@azizilife.com
Website: http://www.azizilife.com/get-involved/experiences
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/142758475747870

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Nobody would argue against the statement that Rwanda is simply one of the most beautiful countries in Africa. With its endless hills and varying landscapes there’s no shortage of stunning scenery and awe inspiring vistas. But let’s face it; you have to shell out a fair amount of money to enjoy any of the great natural landmarks like Nyungwe Forest, Akagera National Park and the like. Even if you just want to climb a volcano you have to pay out for a permit and you must take a guide along. For people like me who enjoy hiking but live on a budget, there aren’t too many Rwandan landmarks available to conquer on the cheap.

But fear not! There is a mountain that is not only free to take hike – it’s also quite easily accessible by car or by bus. Mount Kabuye – not to be confused with the city of Kibuye, which is in a completely different part of Rwanda – is the country’s tallest mountain at around 2,700 meters. Now that may sound impressive but you should know that volcanoes are not classified as mountains, and virtually all of the volcanoes in the Virunga range exceed Mt. Kabuye in height. That being said, Mt. Kabuye still provides hikers with a challenging ascent with its own rewards that include fantastic views of the surrounding countryside as well as the opportunity to experience quaint rural villages and their friendly occupants who make up the 80% of Rwanda’s population.

Getting There

Getting there is pretty simple. Take a car or bus and head toward Ruhengeri (northwest). Your destination is the town of Gakenke, which is about an hour and a half outside of Kigali. If you’re going by bus once you arrive in Gakenke just ask any moto-taxi to take you to Mount Kabuye. They’re quite accustomed to trekkers coming out for a day hike. It’s quite important that you get the moto driver’s name and phone number so you can call him to come and pick you up when you’re finished, unless you want to make the long walk back to Gakenke to catch the bus, which your legs are unlikely to enjoy after hours of traversing steep terrain.

If you’re travelling by car make sure you’re paying attention to the towns you pass as it’s one of those small towns that you could easily drive right through without realizing it. Turn right on what is pretty much the only wide dirt road that intersects the main road. Just look for the sign that directs you to the road to the hospital, or centre de santé, and take it. Continue down this road for about ten minutes. It will begin to narrow, but don’t worry, you’re on the right path. Eventually you will come to the sector office. Here is where you should park your car.

When You Arrive

If you haven’t been spotted already, soon enough some locals will come running out to you hoping to make some money by either watching your car or by guiding you up the mountain. These guys will always try to get “muzungu price” from you, asking for up to 20,000 francs each, but you can usually get both for a total of 5,000. Just make sure you get the name and phone number of the guy watching your car, just in case.

Frankly it’s not necessary to use a guide. The dozen or so local children who will undoubtedly accompany you on you climb can show you the way. It’s obviously not necessary that you pay these kids, but I found them to be very helpful and they were very appreciative when I gave a little money to the ones who guided me all the way to the top. Speaking about these children; throughout the hike they will make you feel slow and out of shape. This is their home and they make ascending to the summit seem like a leisurely stroll in the park. Try to not to feel too bad every time they stop and wait for you to catch up, it happens to all of us.

I could tell you all about the hike itself, but that would ruin the fun for you. I’ll just say that it takes about three and a half hours to reach the top if you include stopping a few times to give your legs a rest on the way up. The peak is a great place to rest and enjoy a pack lunch while overlooking the innumerable hills that crowd the horizon in all directions. Just be a good sport and share a little food with your young escorts as in Rwanda it’s rather rude to eat in front of others. Coming back down takes about two hours, but if you don’t mind taking a little longer I suggest taking another path so you can see some different villages and views as you make your descent.

Mount Kabuye may not be as glamorous as other better-known tourist stops, but it certainly offers outdoor enthusiasts a fun, day long activity that’s near Kigali and, best of all, it’s pretty darn cheap.

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There’s a special place in my heart for ice cream. I grew up on some of the best, living just a mile from a dairy farm that quite possibly fell from Heaven. Since moving to Kigali, that little nook of my heart was feeling quite empty. There’s some ice cream here, but Kigali has no ice cream shops. Surely such a delightful treat deserves some respect. Ice cream is no sideshow. My type of people make ice cream the main event.

Someone heard enough of my languishing and told me about Inzozi Nziza, an ice cream shop in Butare. Yes! All I needed was a way to Butare and I could get my fix. Thankfully, I had an upcoming birthday and after tirelessly dropping hints that I wanted an ice cream road trip my wish came true. Of course, the bus is an option, but sharing the experience with a friend (with a car) is much more fun.

It takes about 2 to 2 1/2 scenic hours to get down to Butare from Kigali. Once you reach Butare, continue on the main road through town that curves to the right and leads you out the southern end. Just before the road curves to the left, Inzozi Nziza is on the right. To be honest, we didn’t know where to find the ice cream when we went; we just parked in town and asked around. As long as you can get to Butare, you’re set.

At Inzozi Nziza I had the surprise of my life – the ice cream is soft serve! I forgot there was such a thing. Apparently, that’s the point, that’s why so many people make the pilgrimage to Butare… because you can get hard ice cream in Kigali, I suppose. Not sure how I missed the memo, but it was a nice surprise anyway.

They offered two flavors when I was there. The machine can only serve a few flavors at a time, so they rotate daily. On my very special day, they had coffee and maracuja (passion fruit) flavors. I tried both. The coffee was great, not too strong, and the maracuja was really fruity. It reminded me a lot of frozen yogurt, probably because I tend to order my frozen yogurt in the fruity variety (like I’m doing my body some great favor). Maracuja wouldn’t have been my first choice if they offered all flavors at once, but I’m glad it was on the menu because I really enjoyed it. They have chocolate and vanilla sometimes, and on any day will have fresh fruit flavors like strawberry, mango, and pineapple.

The ice cream servings come in three sizes: Rwf 500 for teta (small), Rwf 700 for nshuti (medium), and Rwf 1,000 for a cyubahiro (large) cone. Yes, cones! Sure, they offer dishes but half the fun is in the cone. Especially in Africa where anything frozen will melt at record speed.

They have toppings too. I got sprinkles, the merriest of all add-ons. I didn’t know this at the time, but the granola they offer is homemade and highly sought after. Next time.

They also offer coffee ground on location. Just to prolong the joy of sitting under an umbrella outside a cute ice cream shop for the first time in ages, I had a cup after my ice cream (that disappeared far too quickly). Inzozi Nziza brews a mean cup, so consider making a trip to Butare to kill two birds with one stone.

It’s a one stop shop – they serve beer and some food items. Grab a light lunch of bagels, fruit salad, or omelets. Had I known they served food, I would have skipped lunch in town. The more I think about it, the more I realize I have some unfinished business with Inzozi Nziza. Anyone up for a trip? The atmosphere is breezy and relaxed. Hang out for a while when you make an ice cream day trip or be sure to plan a pit-stop if you’re road tripping to Burundi through Butare.

Inzozi Nziza, meaning “sweet dreams,” is a non-profit venture started by Blue Marble Ice Cream out of Brooklyn, New York. Do something good and treat yourself to Rwanda’s finest ice cream.

Hours: 8am – 9pm, Sunday to Monday
Phone: 0788 738 350 / 0725 770 401
Website: http://bluemarbledreams.wordpress.com/our-projects/inzozi-nziza-rwanda
Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Inzozi-Nziza/157667684318222

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It’s no secret that gorilla trekking, the Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Park are the destinations most sought after by international tourists and expats living in Rwanda. However, for those of us who have been living in Rwanda for a while and have already checked the above off their to-do list (or quite simply cannot afford them) there aren’t too many alternatives for recreation and adventure in this tiny country unless you have your own gear. Thankfully there are other options that are becoming available thanks to efforts by the Rwandan government as well as enterprising expats and locals.

One of the newest developments is the Congo-Nile Trail. Officially opened at the end of 2009, the Congo-Nile Trail is actually a tangled network of trails and roads that run from Gisenyi at the north end of Lake Kivu 227 kilometers south to the town of Cyangugu at the southern end of the lake. The landscape between these two familiar points is made up of unending rolling hills and innumerable towns and villages, offering cyclists and trekkers a glimpse of Rwandan rural life rarely experienced by the city dwellers that make up most of Rwanda’s expat community. Bird lovers will also enjoy a wonderful diversity of fowl found along the way, including white tailed blue flycatchers, black headed herons and White-breasted cormorants.

There are several options for enjoying the Congo-Nile Trail. Walking, motorcycling and cycling are all options, but you won’t get very far walking up the hills, and you can’t adequately appreciate the scenery if you’re zooming by on a motorcycle, so I recommend taking a cycling tour to get the most out of the Trail. On a bike you have a plenty of touring options. You can keep to the wide roads, challenge yourself on the more technically demanding narrow footpaths that snake through the hills and villages, or a mix of both. There are several guides available to provide tours on the Congo-Nile, but I would highly recommend Rwandan Adventures.

Rwandan Adventures is run by a very experienced British cyclist, Tom, who started the tour company with the idea of providing a unique recreational experience in Rwanda while also building up the local community around Gisenyi. They train locals on how to perform bicycle repair and maintenance and they also produce and sell good quality bikes to people in the local community at a greatly discounted price. Tom is an excellent guide having a keen knowledge on the terrain, flora and fauna up and down the length of Lake Kivu. He also has a wonderful relationship with seemingly every villager in the area and an intimate understanding of the local culture and language. While the rides are very impressive on their own – with their stunning panoramic views of the hilly landscapes and Lake Kivu as well as intimate encounters with rural Rwandans – touring with Tom is also a pretty impressive learning experience, which is added bang for your recreation dollar.

With Rwandan Adventures you can take a short tour of just a few hours or go crazy and try to make the seven day journey from Gisenyi all the way to Cyangugu, or anything in between. A popular route starts in Gisenyi and ends in Kibuye, stopping overnight on the way at the Kinunu coffee washing station. From Kibuye you return back to Gisenyi by boat along the shore of Kivu. For accommodation in Gisenyi we recommend Paradis Malahide or Inzu Lodge and in Kibuye, check out Home St. Jean and Bethany Guesthouse. Rwandan Adventures offers all sorts of walking and biking tours. To find out more about them and their rates, visit their website or give Tom a call at +250 786 571 414.

The Congo-Nile Trail is a few years old now, but somehow few expats are aware of its existence. So take notice. Whether you’re a cyclist or trekker, amateur or hardcore, it is definitely an experience anyone in Rwanda should take advantage of. Sure, your legs might ache like hell a day or two after, but trust me, it is totally worth it.

Here are a few very detailed and extremely useful blog posts about the trail:

• Congo-Nile Trail – Everything You Need to Know
• Congo-Nile Trail – Bike Tour
• Hiking the Congo-Nile Trail

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Cyangugu. It’s a name that refers to the two southwestern districts in Rwanda, Nyamasheke and Rusizi. Some call it the most beautiful place in Rwanda, but few brave the five to six hour ride from Kigali to witness its grandeur. Read on, as this little guide to the sites of Cyangugu might just convince you to make the trip off the tourist map.

On a geographical note, you might hear Kamembe confusingly called by either Cyangugu or Rusizi. Cyangugu was the former name of Rusizi and Nyamasheke districts, and many Rwandans still refer to the area that way. Generally the city on the hill, where the bus park is located, is called Kamembe, and the area down by Lake Kivu and the border (umupaca) with the DRC is called Rusizi or Cyangugu; it’s about a 10 minute, Rwf 400 to 500 franc moto ride from the official Kamembe town.

Transportation

First, decide on how you’ll get to Cyangugu. You have four choices: either take a bus from Kigali to Kamembe (Rwf 5,200 one way), the boat from Gisenyi (Rwf 6,000) or Kibuye (Rwf 3,500), make the drive yourself, or fly. Impala, Sotra, and Omega bus lines all offer trips to and from Kamembe almost hourly, although you’ll need to take a bus from Nyabugogo leaving no later than noon if you want to make it to Kamembe before dark (the bus ride is six hours).

As you go through Nyungwe Forest, keep your eyes open for adorable monkeys outside the bus, and for the nausea of your fellow passengers inside the bus. Restocking on your supply of motion-sickness medication before making the trip is highly recommended. If you own or can rent a car, you can arrive in a little more than five hours; Butare makes for a nice halfway point for picking up some food or drinks. If you want to get off at the Nyungwe visitor center, where most hikes leave from, just tell the bus driver “Uwinka”; it’s approximately five hours from Kigali.

The boat runs southward from Gisenyi/Kibuye to Kamembe on Sundays and Wednesdays, and returns northward on Tuesday and Friday. It takes about 6 hours to get to Kibuye and 9 hours to Gisenyi from Kamembe, and vice versa (call 0788 870 308 or 0722 069 594 to confirm its schedule). Although the boat isn’t the speediest vessel on Lake Kivu, it is relatively comfortable, serves some food, and it has some amazing views. Get there a little before 7 am; the boat usually leaves promptly.

The final option is to fly! RwandAir runs daily flights from Kigali to Kamembe; flight time is around 30 minutes.

Accommodation

After arriving in Kamembe, there are lots of lodging options to fit all budgets.

• New Hope – Get a budget room at New Hope, near the Kobil Gas Station in town. Rooms with a shared bathroom and no hot water are Rwf 5,0, Rwf 10,000 en suite bathroom and hot water. 0788 750 596 or 0783 422 533
• Home St. Francois – Rooms at Rwf 8,000 have shared bathrooms/showers and no hot water. The Rwf 15,000 rooms have hot water and en suite bathrooms. Located just a few meters from the DRC/Rwanda border. 0784 093 490
• Hotel des Chutes – A solid mid-range choice is the located near the border with en suite rooms from Rwf 15,000 to 50,000. All rooms have hot water except the 15,000 rooms. Prices include breakfast. Wifi is available and Visa is accepted. 0784 343 191 or kivu.sight@yahoo.com
• Peace Guest House – This place is run by the Anglican church and is quiet and slightly removed from Kamembe, on a scenic hill towards the airport. They offer everything from simple rooms to small bungalows and VIP villas (from Rwf 7,000 to 94, 400 per room. Breakfast is included and wifi available. 0252 537 799, 0788 522 727 or info@peaceguesthouse.org
• Emeraude Kivu – The newest (and really, only) upmarket choice. A beautiful place set right on the lake, on the Karambo peninsula, with unreal sunsets over the Congo mountains. Rooms and boarding options range from 65,000 to 133,000 per room and Visa is accepted). There are discounts for residents and citizens of the EAC. Their food is delicious if a bit pricey, and their wifi is fast. Watching the singing fishermen of Lake Kivu come out while enjoying some wine and a pizza is well worth the price. Even if you choose not to stay at the Emeraude, I highly recommend getting food or drinks on their deck around sunset. They also organize boat trips around Lake Kivu and the islands. 0787 010 900 or emeraudekivu@gmail.com

As far as food goes, there are enough options to satisfy every palate. Take in the amazing views of Lake Kivu and DR Congo mansions while enjoying some brochettes, fried bananas, and cold beverages at Ku Bagore, located right on the lake near the border, next to the post office (take a moto from town), or head to Kwasa’s/La Seule Addresse near the Obama Shop on the main road in Kamembe for a great omelette especiale and some soccer matches on the TVs. Motel Rubavu near the market also offers a good Rwandan buffet and a diverse selection; their fish brochettes are highly recommended.

The Hotel des Chutes also offers a large variety of food at reasonable prices – the veggie burger and fries for just Rwf 2,000 is delicious, and their pea curry is great for when you’ve tired of potatoes and brochettes. Just be prepared for a bit of wait, as their service cane be fairly slow and they never seem to have more than three menu items available at any one time.

See & Do

Two local specialties are sambaza, small, crispy silvery fried fish from Lake Kivu, and akabenzi, chunks of local pork, often cooked with bananas. Sambaza can be found at almost any restaurant in Kamembe, including Hotel des Chutes, the Emeraude, Hotel Rubavu, and Ku Bagore. Akabenzi (roasted pork) can be found at Hotel Umucyo in town near the I&M bank, and at Kwa Monica near the bus park.

While you’re in town, you should also check out the newly finished green and white Kamembe mosque. It’s beautiful!

At night, you can often catch some live music at Motel Rubavu in town near the main market; a busy pool table, football matches, a DJ, and dancing at Kwasa’s (La Seule Addresse), near the BIMOPHAR pharmacy, or check out the nightclub and some waragi at Ku Bagore while looking out over Lake Kivu and the DRC.

As fun as it can be, there’s more to the Cyangugu than just Kamembe. In Rusizi district, make sure you visit the hot springs of Cimerwa, near Bugarama. Take a Tripartite bus straight from Kamembe; the trip takes about 1.5 hours. It will drop you off in Cimerwa town, and then it’s about another 10-minute moto ride or 30 minute walk to arrive at the hot springs (amashyuza). The water is usually pretty hot, so most people go in for a few minutes at a time and then sit on rocks to cool off for a bit.

Relax by wading or swimming in the water while being stared at by locals bathing themselves in various states of dress. Extra points if you photo bomb one of the many Rwandan wedding shoots on a weekend. All joking aside, the water is really soothing, and there are great views of the mountains of Rwanda and Burundi. When you’ve had enough hot water and staring for one day, head to the newly opened resto-bar by the hot springs for some refreshment. The last Tripartite bus back to Kamembe leaves at 4 pm, or you can take a moto to Bugarama and catch a taxi back to Kamembe at almost any time, although the latter option is more expensive.

Nyamasheke district forms the other half of the Cyangugu, and offers some stunning views of Lake Kivu. Perhaps one of the most obvious things to do in Nyamasheke is to hike part or all of the Congo-Nile trail. Maps are available at RDB, and the trail is usually clearly marked, with little green signs pointing the way. Although guesthouses are available in some towns, it’s best to bring your own tent as well.

One hidden gem along the Congo-Nile Trail is the Kumbya Retreat. It’s located near the town of Nyamasheke, on a little peninsula on Lake Kivu; take a bus to Nyamasheke town from the Rusizi bus station and then a moto (about 1-2 hours total). It’s secluded and peaceful, and there are small cabins available for 10,000 (two people), or you could camp. There are swaying palm trees, fire pits, a swimming area complete with diving board and a floating island. Bring your own food and cooking equipment, some music, and enjoy a relaxing couple of days. To make reservations, call Julie at 0782 327 661 or Bernadette at 0785 384 273.

Another more well known spot is Nyungwe forest, as well as the “annex”, Cyamudongo, where you can go Chimpanzee trekking, which at $90 a person is a steal compared to the gorillas. (But, unlike the gorillas, you’re not guaranteed to see the chimps). Most of the hikes start at the Uwinka visitors’ center, although some start from Kitabi on the eastern end, and others start from Gisakura on the western end of the forest.

Happy travels, and see you in the Gug!

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If you love coffee then you’re in the right country! Rwanda has some seriously good beans and they don’t have to travel far to find their way into your cup which means they’re about as fresh as they can get! But, despite living here for years, I’d really never heard of any opportunities to learn about coffee production here. It all seemed to be tea, tea, and more tea with the Sorwathe Tea Plantation people leading the way with their on-site accommodation and factory tours. But, little did I know, that a mere two hours away just outside of Huye (Butare) lies the Huye Mountain Coffee Company who run a pretty great little coffee tour that will give you the low-down on coffee production in Rwanda.

It turns out that I actually had some of their coffee at home and it’s my new favourite brand so it was kind of cool to get a chance to explore this specific plantation and factory. The Huye Mountain Coffee tour costs $50 per person (or $40 if you’re a resident of Rwanda) and can last for up to three hours (or less if you’re pressed for time). They told us they depart at 9am and 1pm each day but we didn’t roll into town until about 11am and they were happy to both accommodate our arrival, and shorten the tour a bit so we could get to Nyungwe Forest before the sun went down.

Aloys, the main guide, gave us a little intro to the company before we set out on our tour. After a short drive to the coffee plantation, you get to go on a not-too-strenuous hike up a hill with pretty fantastic views in every direction. After a few minutes walking you get a little lesson in each part of the coffee growing process. Little info blurbs about soil, pests, fertilizers, pesticides, and all of that fun stuff that agriculture nerds such as myself love. There’s plenty of time for nerdy questions, too, and our guide always had the answer.

After about 20 minutes of walking and talking as you approach the top of the hill, you’ll see a pretty acacia tree with stools and a clay pot resting on three stones. The perfect setup for some old-school coffee bean roasting! Aloys whipped up a fire and we spent the next 15 minutes chatting, enjoying the view, and stirring some green coffee around the pot until we had our very own medium roast coffee beans. Then, after a bit of pestle and mortar action, we ended up with some ground coffee ready for the French press… probably just about as fresh as you can find! The smells wafting around in the air were pretty amazing and we were given some of the extra roasted beans and the ground coffee to take home. I’m looking forward to brewing it up.

After the roasting rest we headed a bit further up the hill to a giant rock where we were told an interesting story of love, war, and chickens. The rock is pretty cool and it’s got an amazing view over the valley and is a fine spot for photos before heading further up the hill to the Huye Mountain Coffee tour monument at the top for another short rest and a bit of background on the company.

The plantation portion of the tour ends at the monument and we hiked down about 10 minutes to your car to check out the washing station. The main harvest time runs from February until June so our late July trip meant that the washing station wasn’t in action. But it was interesting to see the machine and to be walked through the processing process. Processing process… yes, I said that. If you’re super into coffee and want to see everything in action, take your tour during the main harvest period. But we weren’t completely out of luck since the cherries are still picked year-round, just in much lower quantities. The smaller number of cherries are able to be processed on a machine at the main office and that’s where we headed next.

This is a really fantastic, professional tour and it’s exciting to see something of this caliber available in Rwanda. It’s a really great opportunity not only to see the coffee production process in action (depending on the time of year you go… aim for around June for prime harvest time) while also getting to take a nice little stroll up a beautiful hill. If you are planning on a shortened version of the tour, try to clarify at the beginning which portions you might want to leave out. We ended up not doing the cupping (tasting the coffee for various traits in the lab) to save time but, had we known in advance, we probably would have chosen to do that and leave something else off instead.

Overall the Huye Mountain Coffee tour is a really great way to spend a half a day and I’d recommend it!

Phone: 0788 303 678 / 0787 630 689
Email: aloystuyi@gmail.com
Website: http://huyemountaincoffee.com

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Photo by Leah Feiger

My friend Leah is a Rwanda-lover with a lot of experience hosting all sorts of guests here. Take a bit of her advice below and you should be able to construct an itinerary that meets everyone’s expectations!

You post pictures on Facebook and Instagram of Lake Kivu, freshly grown and brewed coffee, and colorful fabrics from the market near your house. You get a lot of likes, but rarely a visit. Until one day in May, rainy season is finally coming to a close, and your mother/brother/college roommate shows up on your dusty little doorstep!

When it rains it pours, and one visit is quickly followed by two more. You: a) love this visitor b) don’t really know this visitor c) this visitor is your mom. Where to take them! What to do! They want to see Everything! Different kinds of visitors require a different kind of itinerary, and you’re panicking a little. But don’t worry! Here at Living in Kigali, we got you. You’re thinking –  but Mom wants to do fancy stuff, and your friend from college wants to take buses and eat “local food,” and the person you don’t know… wants to see lions? Maybe a volcano or two? Don’t panic – Rwanda can do all of that. We’re here to make this process as easy (and fun) for you as possible.

While Rwanda is a thriving and gorgeous country, some tourists will stop by for a short three-day visit to hike with the mountain gorillas and go to the Kigali genocide memorial to pay their respects. However, as you know, there is much much more to this incredible place! While we could write a really long article detailing many months wandering through the tea farms and swimming in volcanic lakes, I present to you instead, a short article for how to spend a week to ten beautiful days in Rwanda with a bevy of different types of visitors.

Kigali (1 or 2 Days)

Kigali is a beautiful city that’s often rushed through in favour of gorillas and other out-of-town attractions. The city is very safe, very green, very clean, and has more to offer than a visitor might expect. If you have a day to spare and want a great overview of life in Kigali, book yourself onto an amazing city tour with Go Kigali where they’ll show you how amazing Kigali really is!

The Kigali Genocide Memorial

Visiting this memorial in the Gisozi neighborhood and learning about the 1994 Genocide is a really important part of understanding Rwanda. This really well-organized museum and memorial is deeply moving, as well as informative. Though it is often a quick stop through on the way to Musanze for gorilla tracking, spend an afternoon here to really delve into the exhibits and history. All your visitors should definitely be brought here.

Market and Souvenir Shopping

After spending the morning at the memorial, head to Kimironko to experience the bustle and colorful scene that is the market. Walk through the fruit and vegetables area to bargain for some tasty mangoes and avocados before wandering through the stalls to find the rows and rows of gorgeous African fabric. All sorts of different patterns, colors, and countries are represented in these aisles, and your visitors will, as you know, be hard pressed to not walk away with their arms full. If you have time, ask the seamstresses to make your guests some custom clothing.

After the market, head to nearby Remera for lunch at Chez Lando or New Fiesta. However, this spot, and nearby Remera, isn’t always suitable for Grandma or Mom and Dad. If you don’t think Great Uncle Bob wants to haggle over a pound of potatoes or selection of baskets, take him (and similar relatives) to Caplaki Craft Market in Kiyovu. While it is more expensive, it is definitely a calmer scene than Kimironko. For further market visits and shopping, check out this article on Rwandan souvenir shopping.

Art Galleries

Spend your afternoon wandering around Kacyriu, a neighborhood that holds many of Kigali’s great art galleries. Ivuka and Inema Arts are two of the best, and play host to many talented artists from all over the country. Inema Arts even has a cafe on location that offers delicious soup, sandwiches, and salads. Enjoy looking through the paintings, or perhaps even take one home with you! This activity could definitely be enjoyed by Mom, Dad, and your college roommate, but definitely make sure to arrange transport on things other than motorcycles – those dusty roads can be treacherous!

Big Fish or Republika

One of my favorite meals in Rwanda, except for perhaps brochettes is the giant fish, grilled in savory spices, served with onions and grilled potatoes. I can’t explain how good this tastes. The best place to get big fish is in the Nyamirambo neighborhood, a lively and packed area always filled with music, roasting brochettes, and endlessly flowing beer (always go for a Skol or Primus – Mutzig is a guaranteed hangover). The best restaurants for big fish are within a few blocks of each other, and called Panorama Ten to Two and Green Corner. Anyone in the area can direct you to them or check the maps at the end of each review.

While in town, you also have to try brochettes. Made most often of goat, but also chicken, fish, and beef, they are skewers grilled and brushed with great sauces and spices. The Nyamirambo neighborhood also has the best brochettes in the city. For parental figures not super interested in eating food with their hands and waiting for three hours, check out Repub Lounge. Recently relocated to the Kimihurura area, the chic setting and Rwandan food done in an upscale way will please Mom, Uncle Bob, that friend you worked with that summer, and really anyone!

Musanze Area (2 to 4 Days)

Gorillas – Photo by Leah Feiger

A lot of visitors will head to Musanze for gorilla trekking, which is famous for a reason! After procuring a very expensive and slightly difficult to obtain tracking permit, you will engage on a very early morning expedition. You could hike for 1 hour or six, depending on the gorilla family. After your brilliant trackers locate the family, you get to spend an hour watching these magnificent animals. While expensive, it is absolutely worth it.

However, if funds are an issue and your college roommate is still looking for some Musanze related activities, there are plenty of fun hikes and lakes in the area to take up the day and a half / or two days that gorilla tracking would otherwise have claimed in the schedule. If your buds still want to go on a big hike, and possibly see a gorilla, hike the much less expensive Bisoke Volcano. After emerging at the top, and possibly seeing a gorilla on your way, you’ll find yourself overlooking a stunning crater lake. Bisoke shares a border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, as you look over the crater lake from Rwanda, on a good clear day you’ll see into Congo as well. Hiking Bisoke and going gorilla tracking are incredible experiences.

Twin Lakes – Photo by Leah Feiger

If you have time and money for either or both, all the better for you! Further activities in the Musanze area include the Twin Lakes. If you drive or take a bus a little outside of Musanze town, you’ll find the twin lakes. Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo, separated by just a few small hills, are two of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen. First stay at Foyer de Charitie, a relaxing and beautiful retreat in the mountains overlooking the volcanoes and sparkling Lake Ruhondo. Enjoy the big portions of food at every meal, before spending the next day hiking around the area and taking a boat ride across Ruhondo. Head to Lake Burera to picnic on the shores, before heading back to Musanze town.

If you want to see the most spectacular view of both lakes at the same time, head to the Virunga Lodge for a luxurious fruit juice or beer. While friends might be down to motorcycle around and hire boats on the fly, a family stop at Virunga lodge for the beautiful views (and maybe even an overnight stay) is always a good alternative.

Gisenyi(2 or 3 Days)

Gisenyi – Photo by Leah Feiger

After spending a few days enjoying the twin lakes and getting some good hiking in, head to the biggest lake in the country – Lake Kivu! From the twin lakes or Musanze town, you can catch an easy bus to the town of Gisenyi. A great beach town, the casual vibe is delightful. Spend your day hanging out on the beach before enjoying lunch at Le Tam Tam – my favorite restaurant in the area. For those looking for activities in the area, definitely consider going on a motorcycle tour of a tea farm. The tea fields are stunning pretty much all times of the year, and speeding through on a motorcycle is the epitome of fun. Spend the night at Inzu Lodge, an inexpensive hotel with a gorgeous view, or Waterfront Resort or Paradise Malahide if you’d prefer to be right on the water. Or if your parents prefer a more fancy (and crazy expensive) experience, head to the Serena Hotel.

Kibuye (2 or 3 Days)

Kibuye – Photo by Leah Feiger

From Gisenyi, venture down south along the lake to Kibuye, another popular lake-side town. Either take the bumpy six hour bus from the Gisenyi bus station to Kibuye, or spend a few days slowly hiking the Congo – Nile trail between the two towns. This hike, a popular one in the area, leads you through tea fields and keeps you in view of the gorgeous Lake Kivu. If you are short on time, you can also take public buses intermittently. Alternatively, with Great Uncle Bob, hire a private car – the views are still incredible.

Once in Kibuye, spend some time walking around the area and lounging on the beach. Those looking for something odd and interesting in the area can pay a local fisherman to take you to Bat Island – an island that lives up to its name and plays host to thousands of bats in the area. In terms of lodging, the Cormoran Lodge and Rwiza Village are a little more upmarket for those looking for fancy lodgings, but the Bethanie Guesthouse is also very clean and comfortable and Home St. Jean is super cheap while still managing to be nice and probably has the best view.

Nyungwe Forest National Park (3 Days)

Nyungwe Forest Lodge – Photo by Leah Feiger

Located in southwestern Rwanda, Nyungwe Forest National Park is incredibly different from the scenery you will have so far experienced. A beautiful rain forest, it is home to thirteen species of primates. Hiking tours leave at all points of the year to find the illusive chimpanzee or the more common colobus money. If you have more than a day, take some time to go on a tea factory tour, walk to the Isumu Waterfall, or go on a bird watching walk. Definitely try and have a meal at the gorgeous and upmarket Nyungwe Forest Lodge if you have the cash, but save some money and stay at Gisakura Guest House with that visiting fellow cash-strapped traveler.

From here, your trip could come to an end as you head back to Kigali from Nyungwe via the sleepy university town of Butare. While in Butare on your car ride up, make sure to stop for some famed ice cream at Nzozi Nziza.

Akagera – Photo by Leah Feiger

While the activities listed above are definitely more than enough to fill a visit, there are still more things on offer! If you still have time left in Rwanda, head to Akagera National Park to see the newly imported lions and other interesting wildlife. Camp among giraffe, elephants, and various antelope, while enjoying some of the most expansive and stunning scenery in the region. You can either do self-contained camping, or stay at the Ruzizi Tented Lodge with the family. Regardless, you’ll have a fantastic stay, and maybe even spot one of the newly imported lions!

No matter which itinerary you plan (and please give us comments on ours!), your guests – parental or otherwise – will have a fantastic stay. Enjoy one of the best, and definitely one the most beautiful, countries in the world! Please pour out some Skol for us!

The post Suggested Itineraries for a Visit to Rwanda appeared first on Living in Kigali - Life in Kigali, Rwanda for Expats.

If you’re looking to do something a little different this weekend, kayaking on Lake Kivu has to be one of the most exciting and yet relaxing activities in Rwanda. Kingfisher Journeys set up operations in November 2015 and has amassed a team of kayaks that are waiting for you to take them for a spin. You paddle at a relaxed pace to find peace and quiet with stunning scenery, or go fast and venture a little further out into the lake to discover a true adventure for a weekend break or a few days away from the city.

Most mornings in Gisenyi are calm and sunny, with spectacular views over the blue waters of Lake Kivu. Unfortunately for us, we went in the rainy season so it was a little damp as we set out. But after some breakfast pancakes and a little bit of patience and wisdom from our cheerful guide Francis; the rain passed by.

To start us off, Francis ran through some basic skills (like getting in and out of the kayak without capsizing) and we were ready to go. He helped us launch and we were off! Having previously always paddled in a double kayak (where my partner did all the work) I found the paddling on the flat water in my own kayak was challenging at first but I soon settled in and I was cruising in no time at all. They have great equipment but I’ll have to come back again when they also have some doubles to also give that a try.

As the clouds cleared and the sun came out, we realized how beautiful it was looking across the lake and back to shore from afar. We took a short break to see and experience the hot springs bubbling on the edge of the lake, and met some of the locals basking in the warmth. The water bubbles out at 100 degrees, and is thought to possess healing properties such as being good for weightloss! We decided to stay fat and save our swim in the hot springs for another day and continued paddling across to a nearby fish farm. I was actually surprised at the size of the fish farm and, being a scientist, I naturally had a lot of boring questions about fish feed and ecology.

As the day went on, the breeze began to pick up and the lake started to get a little choppy. I was happy that we could stop for a break on the tip of a small peninsula where Francis laid out a picnic rug and we refueled with some beautiful salads that Kingfisher Journeys had arranged for us from Gisenyi’s Calafia Café. While we were enjoying our lunch, Francis told us that most of the day trips he runs continue on to a small, uninhabited island where people often go for a swim in the clear water. We would have totally been up for that on a hot, sunny day and it’s great to know it’s an option for future trips.

After lunch, this being the wet season, we could see some more clouds gathering so Francis suggested it would be best to start the paddle back to Paradis Malahide, where there were surely some cold beers waiting for us (and a stash of cheese we brought from Kigali). So we paddled back at speeds I didn’t know I was capable of! Francis was flexible and accommodating to both the conditions on the day and also my ability, so by the time we reached Paradise Malahide I had a sense of unknown accomplishment from paddling for 3½ hours. I’m sure others will enjoy longer trips. I’m told that, if you’re up for it, you can spend up to six or seven hours on the water – really!

One thing that I didn’t do but which sounds really worthwhile, is to see (and hear) the unique fishing boats of Lake Kivu departing in the evening. Apparently the fishermen sing rhythmically in unison as they paddle into the night and being up close on the water by kayak is a very special way to experience this spectacle.

Overall, our kayaking trip was a lot of fun and it was a wonderful way to spend a day. Maybe it was just me, but we were a little exhausted at the end and it was totally worth it! These kayaking tours are a very welcome addition to Rwanda’s tourism offerings and I’d totally recommend you give them a try the next time you’re at the lake.

At the moment, Kingfisher Journeys have four single kayaks and run one-day, two-day and occasionally longer tours out of Gisenyi (or Kibuye on request). You do need to book in advance, but they have an easy online booking system, which shows their availability and accepts PayPal as well as all major credit cards. They also do short kayaking trips by the hour out of Discover Rwanda hostel in Gisenyi, which can be arranged when you arrive. Some big discounts are also available for charities, NGOs, Rwandan & East African Community residents, and citizens.

It really is an awesome day out and a wonderful way to experience Lake Kivu at water level! Give them a try next time you’re in Gisenyi.

Phone: +250 (0) 783 811 918
Email: info@kingfisherjourneys.com
Website: http://www.kingfisherjourneys.com
Facebook: https://web.facebook.com/KingfisherJourneys

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Akagera National Park is one of Rwanda’s most popular tourist attractions and it keeps getting better and better each year. It’s been under the combined management of RDB and African Parks (a conservation non-profit based in South Africa) since 2010. In that time, over $12 million has been spent on conservation, park enforcement, tourism initiatives, and community engagement. It’s this exciting partnership that has brought lions to the park and park attendance has jumped from 15,000 people in 2010 to 32,000 people in 2015.

Though Akagera isn’t as well known as other major parks in the region, it’s stunningly beautiful and really does make a great day, overnight, or weekend trip. The park is large and the landscape changes quite drastically from north to south. The rolling hills offer amazing views from the top and a very nice backdrop if you’re in the valleys. Akagera National Park is on the border of Tanzania at a relatively low altitude and is creatively carved with a labyrinth of swamps that flow into the Akagera River.

Akagera Park is located to the Eastern province of Rwanda about two hours away form Kigali. The road is mostly paved until about a half hour before you get to the entrance when things get a bit bumpy and dusty… to get you ready for the park experience! Akagera is home to lots of animals including elephants, buffalo, giraffe and zebras, 11 antelope species, and elusive lions and leopards. If you’ve been on game drives in places like Kenya or South Africa then you might find Rwanda’s little park less exciting as the animals aren’t quite as plentiful as they are in the Serengeti’s of the world. But a trip to Akagera is still highly recommended and it makes for a great day or overnight trip away from Kigali.

Activities

I didn’t realise how many activities were possible in Akagera until very recently but there are quite a few things to keep you busy. At the time of writing this article, park entry costs $35 for international visitors, $25 for East African residents (bring your passport or ID card as proof), and $6 for East African citizens (children over 6 get in for cheaper and kids under five are free). I’ve listed prices below and they’re correct at the time of publishing but things change so make sure to email akagera@african-parks.org for a current list of prices for each activity. Activities are organised by the park and need to be booked and paid for at the reception area close to the southern

• Game Drives – The obvious attraction to a game park is a game drive! You can come in as part of a fully organised tour with a driver and guide or you can get a bit more adventurous and drive yourself in your own vehicle ($7 for EAC/Rwandan registered cars and $25 for foreign registered cars and double for safari vehicles or buses). Driving yourself is fun but you won’t really know where to look for the animals which might be frustrating. Fortunately you can hire a guide to come with you for $25 for a half day or $40 for a full day… just make sure to leave an extra seat in the car! Night game drives for $40 per person (minimum 2, maximum 7 people) are also a possibility and this can be arranged separately from within the park.
• Bird Watching – Akagera is a great spot for bird watching nerds with about 525 Species of birds (four of which are endemic) as well as a large number of migrant birds. The elusive Shoebill Stork can be spotted here along with the endangered and exquisite Papyrus Gonolek.
• Boat Trips – There are three pre-scheduled boat trips (morning, day, or sunset) to enjoy the park from water level surrounded by crocodile, bird, and hippo friends. The one hour trip costs $40 per person (to a maximum of 11 people) or if you’d rather schedule your own trip with a private group at your chosen time it costs $180 to rent the entire boat.
• Fishing – If you have your own gear (rods only, no nets) you can pay a fee of $20 for a permit to fish for the day from the shores of Lake Shakani. Hippos stay in the water during the day and the banks of the shore are gently sloped so you’d see any approaching crocs well before they were consuming you, so there’s nothing to worry about. But it certainly adds an element of excitement to fishing!
• Cultural Tours – In collaboration between the park and local communities, freelance community guides have arranged for some interesting tours and cultural experiences for park guests to participate in. There are four choices – Heritage (The Culture of Cattle), Local Production (Beer and Bees), Arts and Crafts, and Celebration (Food and Festivities). Each of these tours offers a glimpse into life in communities around the park. Try your hand at everything from milking a cow to making an imigongo painting, to sampling honey on the comb, to helping to create a local meal, to having a go at traditional Rwandan dancing. Each cultural experience tour takes around three hours and costs $20 per person with a minimum of three people.
• Walk the Line – This tour is an interesting opportunity to see a portion of the park on foot. Join community freelance guides as they guide you in the shoes of a fence attendant to check the fence that allowed the reintroduction of lions into the park. The moderate walk is 7kms long, takes about 2 hours, and ends on a ridge with a beautiful view over the park. It costs $0 per person with a minimum of three.

Biting Flies

Be aware that there are evil flies (maybe horseflies) that will visit you at certain points in the park and bite the living crap out of you. They take out actual chunks of skin and make you bleed. They suck. A lot. Most people don’t know about these hell-flies before they go to the park so I’m here to tell you about them! They’re not everywhere but you’ll know when you’re driving through a zone. One person will get bitten and everyone will frantically roll up their windows but it will be too late and you’ll have a few hell-flies trapped in there with you, biting and being annoying. Your driver will swerve dangerously as he swats at them and everyone else will have a brief screaming session as the car turns into temporary chaos. To minimise the effect of these horrible creatures, wear light coloured clothing, long pants, and have a long-sleeved shirt handy. Apparently they’re drawn to dark blue and purple so avoid those colours. Bug spray doesn’t work on these demons. They suck but they’re temporary visitors so they’ll soon be gone as you drive on.

Accommodation

• Camping – Sleeping in the park with nothing between you and the animals but a thin sheet of nylon is an exhilarating experience and something fairly unique to Akagera Park. But beware of roving gangs of baboons! They’re cheeky and will do their best to steal your food and terrorize you just because they’re jerks and have weird bums. But spending the night around the campfire with a group of friends, some beers and the wide open sky makes for a great break from city life and is one of the best overnight or weekend trips you can do in Rwanda. There are three campsites with the one in the north at Mutumba known as being the most beautiful (but also the farthest away). Camping costs $20 per person per night and the park can rent you a 6 person tent for an extra $20 per night (for the two southern campsites only). They don’t have any other gear though so make sure to bring your own. Both campsites are equipped with a BBQ and firewood is provided plus there are pit latrines and a small shelter. The views at both campsites are great, it’s peaceful and, lets face it, camping in a game park with wild animals roaming in the bush is pretty damned cool.

• Akagera Game Lodge – If roughing it while evading baboons isn’t really your thing then you might prefer to stay at the Akagera Game Lodge. As we only stopped there for lunch I didn’t get a look at the rooms, but the pool area was nice and the lodge seemed to be a pretty good option, if a little outdated. Nothing too flashy and fairly simple… but good enough, I thought. A single room in the in the lodge costs $100 and doubles go for $120. They’ve got the pool, tennis courts, business facilities and offer a variety of wildlife activities including fishing, game drives and bird watching trips. The lodge isn’t far from the main entrance to the park.
• Ruzizi Tented Lodge – For a more upscale experience, try the Ruzizi Tented Lodge, the park’s nicest accommodation. As the name suggests, you sleep in safari tents but they’re very glamorous and located in a beautiful setting right on one of the park’s lakes. The tents sleep 2 people and cost $165 per person for international visitors and $130 for residents. This includes breakfast and dinner and means that the Ruzizi Lodge is much better value for money and the Akagera Game Lodge. Prices are due to increase in 2017 when they start to offer full board so make sure to double check prices with them at akagera@african-parks.org before booking. There are only nine tents so it books up quickly on weekends. The food gets great reviews and people rave about their showers! I’ll give it a try soon and report back.
• Karenge Bush Camp – I’ve heard wonderful things about this popup style tented camp that’s only open from June 1st to August 31st and mid-December to the end of February each year. The camp costs $150 per person (again, confirm prices before booking) for full board. The camp is more rustic than Ruzizi Tented Lodge but the experience is luxurious and they take very good care of their guests with proper beds, cold drinks, three-course meals, and a spectacular setting. The camp is low impact with no cement being used and the whole thing is packed away each time leaving zero trace behind. This is another example of a great new initiative in the park and I’m looking forward to giving it a try!

Transportation to Akagera Park

You could probably hitch your way to the entrance of the park. Or take a bus to Kayonza District before hopping on a moto for a crazy, dusty ride… but it wouldn’t make much sense since you’ll need a vehicle once you actually get to the park. A game drive on a moto, while it would be an interesting experience and a hell of a story, probably isn’t the best of ideas and isn’t allowed anyway. But if making your own way to the park is how you choose to roll, Akagera has safari cars ready for you to hire on arrival for $175 for a half day and $275 for a full day which probably only makes sense if you have close to the maximum 7 passengers allowed.

Or you could be a bit more ‘normal’ and hire a vehicle in Kigali for the trip. You can drive yourself through the park (if you want to pick up a guide at the information centre to lead you around and spot for animals make sure to leave space for him) or you can hire a driver in Kigali to arrange the entire trip and to act as a guide. Cars for self-drive can often be hired for as little as $50 per day and, while any type of car should be able to make its way through a dry park, a 4×4 is recommended.

If you’d prefer to leave the driving to a professional, hiring a car and a driver is also a possibility. I would recommend contacting Janvier at A Step Into Nature Tours as he has a lot of experience running trips to the park and is an all around nice guy and speaks English, French, Kinyarwanda, and even a bit of German. Prices vary depending on the type of car you want (he has five and seven person safari cars with popup roofs available as well as regular 4x4s without an open roof) so contact him at info@astepintonature.com or 0788 838 109 to get the rundown. There are lots of tour operators in Kigali and everyone has their ‘guy’ but I’d recommend Janvier.

A Step Into Nature Tours also runs fairly regular shared trips to the park for around $100 per person. This is the sort of trip that exists in most countries with a developed tourist industry where you pay your fee and share the trip with some strangers/new friends and Janvier is the only company doing this sort of thing regularly. The costs is the same regardless of how full the car is and it’s a really great way to see the park on a day trip with zero hassles. Check the A Step Into Nature Tours Facebook page occasionally as he posts about upcoming trips there.

Summary

Akagera Park is close to Kigali and it makes a wonderful weekend escape or even just a quick day trip. The park is beautiful and there’s lots to see and do there at affordable prices. It’s great to see how far the park has come in the six years I’ve lived here and the dedication that Rwanda has to investing in its national parks and I love that my trips to Akagera support their great initiatives.

Check out the links below if you have any questions!

Phone: 0782 166 015 / 0786 182 871
Email: akagera@african-parks.org
Website: https://www.african-parks.org/the-parks/akagera
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/AkageraNP

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As a Canadian I grew up with a canoe in the backyard (a little stereotype for you) and we’d often take it out on the waterways around Lake Ontario. It was old and huge and getting in and out was slightly terrifying but I have lots of great memories of floating peacefully in our trusty canoe. So I was pretty excited when Kingfisher Journeys imported four canoes to start running trips near Musanze.

Kingfisher Journeys is one of Rwanda’s most innovative and exciting tour companies, introducing kayaking and canoeing trips to some of the country’s beautiful waterways. They opened their ‘doors’ back in November 2015 with kayaking trips on Lake Kivu and, as of June 2016 have expanded to canoeing trips on the Mukungwa River near Musanze. I love businesses that try something totally new and push the tourist industry forward with a completely new activity and Kingfisher Journeys are a great business offering exciting trips that add to the list of things to do in Rwanda. They’re even working on an epic 11 day kayaking trip that will run the length of Lake Kivu!

But back to canoeing… we decided to drive up to Musanze in the morning, do the afternoon canoe trip, and then we stayed at the Ruhondo Beach Resort which is a beautiful place but it’s about 30 minutes outside of Musanze plus another 20 minute boat ride so if you’re pressed for time you might want to stay somewhere in Musanze itself. If you’re looking for a relaxing escape from Kigali, a canoe trip plus an overnight in Musanze is a perfect little getaway. The drive isn’t too long, the trip is about as zen as it gets, and there are some great options for a nice night in Musanze in the shadow of the volcanoes.

Our afternoon canoe trip started with a 2pm pickup at Hotel Muhabura which is right on Musanze’s main road. If you arrive early enough this place looks like a nice spot for lunch. We were met by our guide Sandrine and then driven about 20 minutes to the river to start our trip. After some short instruction on paddling techniques and some safety info, we clamored down the bank of the river (not a difficult descent but Kingfisher Journeys are planning to add stairs soon) into our canoes. We were two to a canoe with Sandrine paddling alongside us in her own boat.

The canoeing itself takes around three hours so make sure to come prepared with a full belly and some sunscreen. The section of river they’ve chosen is flat and meandering. It’s very relaxed with a couple of small sections of white water excitement built in. Mostly you’ll be paddling gently and taking in the beautiful surroundings. It’s great to drift by as people go about their day-to-day activities beyond the sugar cane, bamboo, and other crops. Canoeing down the river is a wonderful way to see the area at water level and we saw lots of birds up close (36 different bird species have been counted so far) and I hear that there are also otters though were weren’t lucky enough to see them on our trip. You’ll be happy to hear there there are no crocs or hippos in this area.

Sandrine is a great lover of the outdoors and she’ll answer all of your questions about the area. She’s got such an interesting story involving taking a training programme in Australia for outdoor activities and guiding and it’s really great that she and Kingfisher Journeys have found each other as she’s the perfect person to lead these trips. She’ll snap photos along the way so you can leave your camera at home if you don’t want to risk it getting wet. Dry bags are provided though and it was easy to pull our phones or cameras out along the trip. The afternoon light was stunning on the day we went and we got some very nice shots, especially when the volcanoes loomed in the background.

Canoeing is leisurely enough not to tire you out too much and no experience is required so it would make a great addition to gorilla trekking or a hiking trip in the Musanze area. If you’ll be in Musanze for a trek, I’d recommend booking a canoeing trip for the afternoon the day before. Leave for Musanze in the morning, grab lunch, and then hop onto an afternoon trip that runs from around 2 to 5pm. The paddling is nice and relaxing and your body won’t hate you the next day so you’ll be ready to chase some gorillas!

We did the trip as the main attraction and it’s totally worth the journey up to Musanze. If you’re planning a weekend in Gisenyi you could even stop in Musanze on the way for a bit of paddling fun, and then continue the at 1.5 hours to Gisenyi afterward. Since Musanze is only about 2 hours from Kigali, canoeing could also be done as a day trip. Restaurants in Musanze can take awhile for food so consider grabbing a packed lunch from Turambe Shoppe to take with you to eat before you go canoeing or stop at Sina Gerard (the rest stop about 45 minutes outside of Kigali) for brochettes and potatoes on the way up.

At $35 , the canoeing trip already starts out as a very affordable half day outing but Kingfisher Journeys also offer generous discounts for students, East African citizens and residents, groups (for five or more people), and guests at a selection of hotels. Check out their discounts page for all of the details. Another nice touch is that any discount applies to the entire booking, even if only one person applies.

I love being on the water and Kingfisher Journeys really have added something special to everyone living or passing through Rwanda. I haven’t tried kayaking yet but I’m looking forward to giving it a go and the next time I’m in Gisenyi, they also have paddle boards. Check out their video for a sneak peek of what’s in store and if you want to book, all of the details are below. Canoeing is number two on Trip Advisor for things to do in Musanze (behind those sexy gorillas) and I can totally recommend it too!

Phone: 0783 811 918
Website: http://www.kingfisherjourneys.com
Email: info@kingfisherjourneys.com

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Though there are many getaway options for a weekend trip from Kigali, visiting the twin lakes in the Musanze region is always at the top of my list. There are several places to stay on Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo (including the beautiful albeit expensive Virunga Lodge in between the lakes, Foyer de Charitie overlooking Lake Ruhondo, and Ruhondo Beach Resort). However, my undoubtable favorite has to be camping on Ile de Cyuza in the middle of Lake Burera.

La Paillotte Gorilla Place in Musanze town, in addition to running a bakery, restaurant, and several guesthouses, also owns Ile de Cyuza (Cyuza’s Island) on Lake Burera. The island covers 14 hectares, and though parts of it are cultivated, a lot of the island is still in a natural state. Vegetable patches and fruit trees, however, abound! The island is also a community-run initiative, benefiting the surrounding town with the proceeds from your stay and the produce from the island.

Getting to Ile de Cyuza

After making your reservation (email lapaillottegorillaplace@hotmail.com and call 0785 523 561 or 0722 322 066), it’s time to head to Musanze! If you’re driving (lucky you), just head northwest as if you were heading to Gisenyi (google maps has all the information). If you’re taking public transit, hop on a two hour bus from Nyabugogo Bus Station for Rwf 1,200 from Virunga Express. Upon arrival in Musanze, head to the La Paillote restaurant to meet the owner of Cyuza’s Island or one of her staff members.

Once you meet them at the restaurant, you can confirm your booking in person and be on your way! If you are driving, they will give you instructions to head to the spot on the lake where you can park your car and then boat across. If you’re taking public transport (as we did), you will walk to the Musanze bus station and take a bus to Rugarama (about 30 minutes of driving). Don’t forget to tell the driver you need to get off at Rugarama, as it is not a specific or official bus stop. The bus tickets are Rwf 500 each way.

When you arrive, you will be met by the manager of the island. The bus stop is about four kilometers from the shore of Lake Burera, and you can either walk or hire a moto for about Rwf 1,000. Be warned: this will be the bumpiest moto ride of your life. Upon getting to the shore of the lake, you’ll hop into a small boat and start paddling to the island. This takes about twenty minutes, and you might have to bail out the boat every once in a while along the way. However, it is beautiful. Like really really beautiful. Like maybe we should all move to this island kind of beautiful.

At Cyuza’s Island on Lake Burera

Upon arrival at Cyuza’s Island, you will take a short (and uphill) five minute walk to the eating area, which is really just a cement and wood open-air room with a thatched roof. It has a beautiful view of the lake, and looks out over the Muhabura volcano. Regarding sleeping arrangements, the camping area is great (and a short walk from the main eating area). It is Rwf 10,000 per person to camp, and they provide the tent, mattress, and pillows if you don’t come with your own. Do, however, bring a sleeping bag or sheets.

Since it’s Musanze, it can get pretty chilly at night, so don’t forget the cozy blankets and sweaters! Something to keep in mind: this is not a ‘luxurious’ experience – there aren’t showers, the bathroom is a (well-maintained) compost toilet, and I would advise bringing (and cooking) your own food. However – this place is lovely, good value, and a unique way to spend a weekend in Rwanda! Our view from our tent, as pictured above, is still one of the best views I’ve ever had.

Food, Drinks, and Activities

We brought our own food and drinks, but it is possible to order food from La Paillotte and have it delivered. They also have coffee and tea available in the eating area. Bring snacks and alcohol if you’re so inclined, as a glass of wine and chocolate at night tastes even better (is that possible?!) under the stars and in the foothills of volcanoes. Though we spent our time on the island relaxing, reading, and swimming, the island can also help arrange a boat ride and other activities in the area. If you’re looking for more to do during your time in Musanze, check out Kingfisher Journeys for canoeing near the gorillas, head to Virunga Lodge for a beer and a great view, hike around the twin lakes, or hike Bisoke volcano (or any of the other amazing volcanos in the area).

In love with this Cyuza’s Island yet? Checking your calendar for upcoming free weekends? That’s probably a good call – this island is the best!

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I’ve been on countless road trips throughout Rwanda – from the eastern provinces to Nyungwe National Park to the volcanoes of Musanze, and they’re all stunning. Rwanda, as we can agree, is a beautiful country. However, not to make this a competition or anything, but while Rwanda by land is wonderful, Rwanda by water is truly spectacular. I recently spent four days kayaking from Kibuye to Gisenyi with Kingfisher Journeys and loved it! Keep on reading below for all the down and dirty details on our itinerary, from the lack of showers (the best!) to the kayaking conditions to the transportation and accommodation specifics.

The Basics

This four day trip ranges in price (depending on if you’re a resident, student, volunteer, or regular tourist) from $180 to $300, and is very good value for an entire half a week on the water. Keep in mind that accommodation and food are not included after the first camping night. The price covers the kayaks, your camping equipment, water, and your fantastic guide. You have a few options where to stay along the way, and read on for your options!

Don’t expect luxury – you will be camping at least one night, and spending the rest of the nights in small guesthouses. Though you cannot shower at the camping island, depending on the accommodations you choose along the way you might be able to snag a shower during the week (don’t expect hot water, however). The food options are good and taste amazing after a day on the water, but you’re not going to be eating the most gourmet meals of your life.

You don’t have to be in great shape to do this trip (ahem, looking at myself here), but you have to be at least moderately fit and ought to have kayaked a few times previously. You will really only be kayaking up to 4 or 5 hours a day depending on the fitness levels of your group, but we took tons of breaks and lazed about checking out the beautiful scenery all the time. Don’t be nervous! The Kingfisher team is awesome and will absolutely be looking out for you before, after, and during your trip.

What to Bring

So this is a kayaking trip and you’re going to spending most of your days on the water. You’re going to get pretty wet, and the clothes you bring should reflect that. Quick dry items are preferable, and I ended up wearing the same quick dry leggings and tank top for several days (yes, I’m gross). You can rent camping equipment (sleeping bag, tent, and sleeping pad) from Kingfisher, or you could bring your own like we did. A couple of other things to make sure are on your list:

• Sunscreen (bring SO much of this – it’s hot out there)
• A change of clothes for when you finish kayaking for the day that are dry.
• Hammocks (who doesn’t love a good hammock), playing cards, books, and other things to entertain yourself for the non-kayaking portion of your days.
• A sweater or fleece for when the nights get chilly.
• Cameras! Gotta document those amazing landscapes!
• Kingfisher provides drybags (to seal up valuables), but if you have more feel free to bring those too.
• SNACKS! We had lots of nuts, dried fruit, chocolate, and other goodies with us, and that was so helpful.

Getting to Kibuye and where to stay:

Though our kayaking journey started on a Wednesday, Jenny and I were asked to get to Kibuye on Tuesday to make sure everything was sorted and ready to go for our 8am departure the next day. That Tuesday afternoon we met up with Francis, our awesome Kingfisher guide, to make sure all our gear fit into the kayaks and chat about the schedule for the coming days.

We also arrived early in an attempt to transfer some luggage from Kibuye to Gisenyi that we did not want to take on the kayaks. Kingfisher had offered to help us out, and had asked the boat driver who had transferred the Kingfisher kayaks to Kibuye from Gisenyi to transfer our items back to Gisenyi. This proved to be pretty confusing, and I would probably recommend not trying to do this in the future because of the uncertainty. Regardless, with the help of Francis, we were able to pay the boat driver Rwf 10,000 to transfer our belongings as he was already going to be making his way back to Gisenyi.

To get to Kibuye from Kigali, you can either self-drive or take a three hour long bus ride from Nyabugogo. I usually use the Capital bus company, where tickets are Rwf 2,500 per person and the drivers are not outrageously fast.

Once in Kibuye, we spent the night at one of my favorite spots in town, Home Saint Jean. Ah, Home Saint Jean… home to cheap rooms (doubles start at Rwf 18,000 for the whole room, and dorms at Rwf 8,000 per person), great views, and cold beer (Rwf 1,400 for a large Skol Lager). The view from the restaurant is special. Just really really special. Trust me, if you’re on a budget this is definitely the place to be. Service, while sometimes slow, is generally pretty good. Though the menu has some hit and misses, the grilled half chicken with chips (Rwf 6,000) is big enough for two and is easily one of my favorite meals along Lake Kivu. After dinner, we went to bed quite early to be all ready for the adventures to come. Get at us, Lake Kivu!

Day One

We started our journey at the Bethany hotel at 7:30am. After packing up the kayaks, our little group of five (Francis, Jenny, a couple, and myself) hit the water. Though the water was very calm in the beginning, about an hour into our trip the wind started tossing our little kayaks around. Jenny and I have kayaked quite a bit before, so were fine when it got a little choppy, but the two other people in our group were not the happiest. So here is Pro tip #1: do not come on this trip unless you want to kayak for 4 days and feel comfortable on the water! The other couple ended up leaving the trip permanently by midday, which was a bummer. Yikes. We had a blast though! And after they were picked up by a boat to take them directly to Gisenyi, we kayaked the islands of Kibuye (and even saw the famous swimming cows). After a few hours, we made our way to our lovely uninhabited island to set up camp for the night.

The island is beautiful, with stunning views out onto the lake for sunset and perfectly placed trees from which to hang hammocks. Pro tip #2: bring a hammock! Additionally, as I realized while unpacking gear for the night, make sure that you keep everything you store in the kayaks in dry bags. While the spots where you store items in the kayak shouldn’t theoretically get wet, I learned my lesson after spending the first night on a slightly damp sleeping mat and bag that I hadn’t protected well enough. So pro tip #3: use those dry bags, friends!

Dinner that night was delicious, and we cooked potatoes, eggs, and vegetables with Francis. Though fish is a possibility at the island, it’s not a guarantee if the water that day was a little rough and fishermen did not venture out. As a result, I would recommend asking Francis or whoever your guide is to make sure you have eggs or some other protein in addition to your vegetables – you’re getting a work out, and (pro tip #4) need that protein!

After a filling meal and a somewhat intense day on the water (those waves are no joke!), we fell asleep around 8:00pm with plans to wake up early the next morning.

Day Two

This was likely our favorite kayaking day of the trip because dang – Lake Kivu is stunning. Especially early in the morning. The views are beautiful, the water was calm, and the blue and green hills in the background were mesmerizing. As we had learned the day before, June and July are (apparently) windy season on the lake. Francis recommended we leave the campsite on the earlier side around 7:00 or 7:30am, and after doing that for the rest of the week, we had very few issues with wind. In fact, the lake was positively serene and the reflections on the water were unbelievable.

We started off our morning from the island watching as several fishing boats came into the nearby town. I had seen these boats in the distance in the past, but this was the closest I had seen them in person – and they’re the coolest!

Though you’re generally kayaking only about ten kilometers a day, on Day 2 from Kibuye you can do an additional six kilometer kayak around Bugarura island if you want. This island is the biggest one on Lake Kivu, and the kayak around the island is pretty scenic (although long).

After a couple good hours on the lake, we arrived at Kinunu. There are two options for sleeping arrangements on Day 2, and you can choose between the budget Kinunu Guesthouse or the Rushel Kivu Lodge. The Kinunu Guesthouse is a nice, cheaper option (and is where we stayed). Camping in their yard runs Rwf 10,000 per tent, and doubles are Rwf 25,000 (this option includes breakfast). You can order a buffet dinner at Kinunu Guesthouse for Rwf 5,000 per person, and they have cold sodas and beer on sale as well.

Alternatively, the Rushel Kivu Lodge is a bit more expensive. Though camping with your own tent is the same price as at Kinunu (Rwf 10,000 per tent), the next cheapest option for a double (either in their glamping tents or the actual rooms) is Rwf 35,000 for two people. That being said, the food is quite good (with fish, chicken, beef brochettes running between Rwf 1,000 and 1,500), and you can order off a menu as opposed to doing a buffet. We came here for lunch after finishing kayaking for the day, and had a really enjoyable time hanging out and enjoying the view at the lodge.

In retrospect, I probably would have stayed at Rushel Kivu Lodge and camped with the tent we brought due to the good food options, nice beach, and beautiful view. Additionally, with Rushel Kivu Lodge you just kayak up the shore onto the beach, whereas with Kinunu Guesthouse you have to hike up a little bit and Francis enlists some folks to help carry the kayaks. However, if you’d really rather stay in a room and not a tent, are strapped for cash, and don’t care about the view or the food, Kinunu Guesthouse is probably the way to go.

Day Three

This was another beautiful kayaking day, but it is also your hump day. By that I mean, if you’re like me and rarely work out, your body is going to be feeling it. My arms felt like noodles. Oops. Might be time to start hitting the gym. Francis, however, was a champ and kept motivating us, specifically by feeding us bananas every few kilometers. It was delightful.

Though Francis provided the bananas for the day, Jenny and I provided the entertainment. This leads me to Pro tip #5: go with people you want to hang out with! We spent our time singing absurd camp songs I learned in the middle of Maine, playing cards, reading Harry Potter to each other, and just generally talking nonsense. It was great. Get a good fun group together, and you’ll have an awesome time regardless of the conditions.

Our 10 kilometer paddle for the day was fairly uneventful – albeit beautiful, and we had the chance to really see a lot of bird life. Watching cormorants dip in and out of the water looking for fish is really cool, while taking our time kayaking towards Gisenyi was truly enjoyable.

After getting to the guesthouse in Cymbili, we set up the hammock, hung out, called our families, and just generally relaxed. This guesthouse is probably my favorite place we stayed at, though the island camping is also great. It is Rwf 15,000 for a double room or Rwf 5,000 per person if you’re camping, so we snagged a double room as the prices were so similar. It was Rwf 5,000 per person for a simple buffet dinner, and the staff there were really kind, thoughtful, and relaxed. In fact the whole place was relaxed, and the sunset views were wonderful. When the afternoon wind died down a little bit, Francis set up a little fire and we roasted some marshmallows to make s’mores as a little pre-dinner snack. Pro tip #6: bring marshmallows!

The guesthouse sits on a nice sandy beach, so if it’s not too windy you can enjoy a nice beach day post-kayaking. The beach is also fantastic because you literally can paddle onto shore and be just a few meters away from the guesthouse. And trust me – by day three you’re going to appreciate that.

Day Four

Ah, day 4. Our last day! I still can’t believe our trip was over so quickly. We woke up in the morning morning at 5:30am to the chorus of songs from the nearby boarding school. As delightful as that sentence sounds theoretically, it made me want to jump into the lake. So! Keep that in mind – if you’re here on a weekend, you’ll likely be woken up. About an hour later, we rolled out of bed and got ready to kayak the last leg of this journey to Gisenyi.

Though the first hour or so of the day was the usual blue waters of Kivu, right before we made it to Gisenyi we passed a lot of trash in the water that Francis explained was floating from the Congo side of Lake Kivu. We were all pretty shocked to see the mass amounts of trash, especially as a toilet-seat floated right by (you just can’t make this stuff up). Whoops. Anyways, we weren’t sure if it was a shift in the wind or a week of a lot of garbage, but it was pretty wild. Other than that, it was another stunning day on the water! Kayaking into Gisenyi, with views of Goma fairly clear, was a great end to a great trip.

We landed at Paradise Malahide around 11am (since we are obviously expert kayakers at this point) ready to shower, but definitely bummed to leave our little kayaks and wonderful Francis behind!  The paddle to Gisenyi feels a little long, perhaps longer than 10 kilometers, but that could also be because our arms felt like overcooked spaghetti at this point. A Fanta citron and a cold Skol later (in addition to gallons of water – stay hydrated, kids!) we were already reminiscing about our time on Lake Kivu and with Kingfisher.

Final Thoughts

I would absolutely do this again! Or perhaps attempt the Kibuye to Cyangugu trip and truly finish up the Congo Nile Trail by water. I’ve spent a good few years going on hikes and different trips around Rwanda, and our time with Kingfisher Journey was definitely unique. Whether you live here or are a tourist, this trip is a lovely way to see the country from a new perspective. Thanks for an awesome time, Kingfisher Journeys! Any questions about our trip? Want to go soon? Let us know in the comments!

To book or for more information, check the Kingfisher Journeys website, Facebook page, email them at info@kingfisherjourneys.com, or call +250 (0)783 811 918 in Rwanda or you can reach them in the UK at +44 (0)33 0001 0610.

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Though small, Rwanda has much to offer the intrepid traveler. With some of the world’s best views, exhilarating animal encounters, and vibrant city life, Rwanda is quickly becoming one of the most exciting countries to visit in East Africa. Check out our ten reasons for why Rwanda should definitely be added to your travel bucket list.

1. This place is beautiful

Lush green hills, sweeping panoramic views, clean city streets, and colorful storefronts – Rwanda is truly a beautiful place. Spend just a few days or weeks visiting this stunning country, enjoying countless hikes, dips in volcanic lakes, and treks with majestic mountain gorillas.

2. It is incredibly easy to get around

Public transport around the country is fairly reasonable, safe, and easy to figure out. All buses leave from the Nyabugogo bus station in Kigali, and taxis and motorcycle taxis around the country are easy to come by. Plus, Rwanda is tiny! Unlike neighboring Tanzania, Uganda, and Democratic Republic of Congo, travelers can see most of Rwanda in a single visit.

3. All the primates, all the time

Of the 880 endangered mountain gorillas left in the world, approximately 400 of them are found in the Virunga volcanoes located in Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Although seeing mountain gorillas in Rwanda has recently become incredibly expensive, it is super easy to do a quick overnight visit to Uganda or Congo for gorilla trekking. In addition to gorillas, Rwanda is also home to golden monkeys, chimpanzees, and several other primates.

4. Kigali is a city on the move

Though Kigali is not as loud or large as nearby Kampala, Nairobi, and Dar es Salaam, the city is slowly becoming one of East Africa’s best. It’s clean, safe, and the different neighborhoods all have their own unique identities. Check out bustling Kimironko, home to the city’s largest market, or grab some grilled brochettes in Nyamirambo, Kigali’s Muslim quarter. With art galleries, new restaurants, and hot bars sprinkled around the city, Kigali is not a spot to be missed.

5. Safari for a fraction of the usual cost

With lions and rhinos recently re-introduced to Akagera National Park, Rwanda once again has the safari big five. Visiting Akagera is much cheaper than touring any of the other national parks in the region, and the expansive savannah and sunrise views are breathtaking.

6. Luxury travel is on the rise

Bisate Lodge in Kinigi

If you’re in the mood to stay at a gorgeous lodge overlooking volcanoes and sparkling lakes or nestled in tea fields, Rwanda is the place to visit. Though luxury accommodation is fairly expensive, the lodges themselves are stunning, the food is delicious, and the service impeccable.

7. And yet, Rwanda is still affordable

View from Home St. Jean in Kibuye

Although the gorilla permits recently doubled in price and international luxury lodges are springing up around the country, do not be scared off by the price tag! There are plenty of Rwandan-run guesthouses, hotels, and restaurants that work for all budgets and are absolutely worthwhile to visit.

8. It’s not overrun yet

Kayaking in Gisenyi with Kingfisher Journeys

Unlike the hoards of tourists polluting Zanzibar’s pristine beaches, rafting the nile in Uganda, or going on safari in the Maasai Mara (all activities, by the way, that are still awesome), Rwanda is pretty untouched. Spend your days meeting people that actually live here, as opposed to hanging out with your hostel mates in Mombasa.

9. Walk through a rainforest canopy

Nyungwe National Park is an ancient rainforest located in southwestern Rwanda. Through excellent conservation initiatives, the biodiverse park is well-preserved and plays host to hundreds of birds, 13 primate species, countless hiking trails, and a walkway suspended over the vibrant rainforest canopy.

10. Everyone can visit!

In this tense global climate where fear about international travel and cooperation is at an all time high, Rwanda has gone above and beyond. As of January 1st, 2018, citizens of any country will be able to obtain a visa upon arrival in Rwanda. This is a landmark decision, and should only make it easier and less stressful to visit this gorgeous country.

So what do you think! Did we miss any fantastic reasons to visit Rwanda? Let us know in the comment section!

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Akagera National Park is one of Rwanda’s most popular tourist attractions and it keeps getting better and better each year. It’s been under the combined management of RDB and African Parks (a conservation non-profit based in South Africa) since 2010. In that time, over $12 million has been spent on conservation, park enforcement, tourism initiatives, and community engagement. It’s this exciting partnership that has brought lions to the park and park attendance has jumped from 15,000 people in 2010 to 32,000 people in 2015. Though Akagera isn’t as well known as other major parks in the region, it’s stunningly beautiful and really does make a great day, overnight, or weekend trip. The park is large and the landscape changes quite drastically from north to south. The rolling hills offer amazing views from the top and a very nice backdrop if you’re in the valleys. Akagera National Park is on the border of Tanzania at a relatively low altitude and is creatively carved with a labyrinth of swamps that flow into the Akagera River. Akagera Park is located to the Eastern province of Rwanda about two hours away form Kigali. The road is mostly paved until about a half hour before you get to the entrance when things get a bit bumpy and dusty… to get you ready for the park experience! Akagera is home to lots of animals including elephants, buffalo, giraffe and zebras, 11 antelope species, and elusive lions and leopards. If you’ve been on game drives in places like Kenya or South Africa then you might find Rwanda’s little park less exciting as the animals aren’t quite as plentiful as they are in the Serengeti’s of the world. But a trip to Akagera is still highly recommended and it makes for a great day or overnight trip away from Kigali. Activities I didn’t realise how many activities were possible in Akagera until very recently but there are quite a few things to keep you busy. At the time of writing this article, park entry costs $35 for international visitors, $25 for East African residents (bring your passport or ID card as proof), and $6 for East African citizens (children over 6 get in for cheaper and kids under five are free). I’ve listed prices below and they’re correct at the time of publishing but things change so make sure to email akagera@african-parks.org for a current list of prices for each activity. Activities are organised by the park and need to be booked and paid for at the reception area close to the southern Game Drives – The obvious attraction to a game park is a game drive! You can come in as part of a fully organised tour with a driver and guide or you can get a bit more adventurous and drive yourself in your own vehicle ($7 for EAC/Rwandan registered cars and $25 for foreign registered cars and double for safari vehicles or buses). Driving yourself is fun but you won’t really know where to look for the animals which might be frustrating. Fortunately you can hire a guide to come with you for $25 for a half day or $40 for a full day… just make sure to leave an extra seat in the car! Night game drives for $40 per person (minimum 2, maximum 7 people) are also a possibility and this can be arranged separately from within the park. Bird Watching – Akagera is a great spot for bird watching nerds with about 525 Species of birds (four of which are endemic) as well as a large number of migrant birds. The elusive Shoebill Stork can be spotted here along with the endangered and exquisite Papyrus Gonolek. Boat Trips – There are three pre-scheduled boat trips (morning, day, or sunset) to enjoy the park from water level surrounded by crocodile, bird, and hippo friends. The one hour trip costs $40 per person (to a maximum of 11 people) or if you’d rather schedule your own trip with a private group at your chosen time it costs $180 to rent the entire boat. Fishing – If you have your own gear (rods only, no nets) you can pay a fee of $20 for a permit to fish for the day from the shores of Lake Shakani. Hippos stay in the water during the day and the banks of the shore are gently sloped so you’d see any approaching crocs well before they were consuming you, so there’s nothing to worry about. But it certainly adds an element of excitement to fishing! Cultural Tours – In collaboration between the park and local communities, freelance community guides have arranged for some interesting tours and cultural experiences for park guests to participate in. There are four choices – Heritage (The Culture of Cattle), Local Production (Beer and Bees), Arts and Crafts, and Celebration (Food and Festivities). Each of these tours offers a glimpse into life in communities around the park. Try your hand at everything from milking a cow to making an imigongo painting, to sampling honey on the comb, to helping to create a local meal, to having a go at traditional Rwandan dancing. Each cultural experience tour takes around three hours and costs $20 per person with a minimum of three people. Walk the Line – This tour is an interesting opportunity to see a portion of the park on foot. Join community freelance guides as they guide you in the shoes of a fence attendant to check the fence that allowed the reintroduction of lions into the park. The moderate walk is 7kms long, takes about 2 hours, and ends on a ridge with a beautiful view over the park. It costs $0 per person with a minimum of three. Biting Flies Be aware that there are evil flies (maybe horseflies) that will visit you at certain points in the park and bite the living crap out of you. They take out actual chunks of skin and make you bleed. They suck. A [...]

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As a Canadian I grew up with a canoe in the backyard (a little stereotype for you) and we’d often take it out on the waterways around Lake Ontario. It was old and huge and getting in and out was slightly terrifying but I have lots of great memories of floating peacefully in our trusty canoe. So I was pretty excited when Kingfisher Journeys imported four canoes to start running trips near Musanze. Kingfisher Journeys is one of Rwanda’s most innovative and exciting tour companies, introducing kayaking and canoeing trips to some of the country’s beautiful waterways. They opened their ‘doors’ back in November 2015 with kayaking trips on Lake Kivu and, as of June 2016 have expanded to canoeing trips on the Mukungwa River near Musanze. I love businesses that try something totally new and push the tourist industry forward with a completely new activity and Kingfisher Journeys are a great business offering exciting trips that add to the list of things to do in Rwanda. They’re even working on an epic 11 day kayaking trip that will run the length of Lake Kivu! But back to canoeing… we decided to drive up to Musanze in the morning, do the afternoon canoe trip, and then we stayed at the Ruhondo Beach Resort which is a beautiful place but it’s about 30 minutes outside of Musanze plus another 20 minute boat ride so if you’re pressed for time you might want to stay somewhere in Musanze itself. If you’re looking for a relaxing escape from Kigali, a canoe trip plus an overnight in Musanze is a perfect little getaway. The drive isn’t too long, the trip is about as zen as it gets, and there are some great options for a nice night in Musanze in the shadow of the volcanoes. Our afternoon canoe trip started with a 2pm pickup at Hotel Muhabura which is right on Musanze’s main road. If you arrive early enough this place looks like a nice spot for lunch. We were met by our guide Sandrine and then driven about 20 minutes to the river to start our trip. After some short instruction on paddling techniques and some safety info, we clamored down the bank of the river (not a difficult descent but Kingfisher Journeys are planning to add stairs soon) into our canoes. We were two to a canoe with Sandrine paddling alongside us in her own boat. The canoeing itself takes around three hours so make sure to come prepared with a full belly and some sunscreen. The section of river they’ve chosen is flat and meandering. It’s very relaxed with a couple of small sections of white water excitement built in. Mostly you’ll be paddling gently and taking in the beautiful surroundings. It’s great to drift by as people go about their day-to-day activities beyond the sugar cane, bamboo, and other crops. Canoeing down the river is a wonderful way to see the area at water level and we saw lots of birds up close (36 different bird species have been counted so far) and I hear that there are also otters though were weren’t lucky enough to see them on our trip. You’ll be happy to hear there there are no crocs or hippos in this area. Sandrine is a great lover of the outdoors and she’ll answer all of your questions about the area. She’s got such an interesting story involving taking a training programme in Australia for outdoor activities and guiding and it’s really great that she and Kingfisher Journeys have found each other as she’s the perfect person to lead these trips. She’ll snap photos along the way so you can leave your camera at home if you don’t want to risk it getting wet. Dry bags are provided though and it was easy to pull our phones or cameras out along the trip. The afternoon light was stunning on the day we went and we got some very nice shots, especially when the volcanoes loomed in the background. Canoeing is leisurely enough not to tire you out too much and no experience is required so it would make a great addition to gorilla trekking or a hiking trip in the Musanze area. If you’ll be in Musanze for a trek, I’d recommend booking a canoeing trip for the afternoon the day before. Leave for Musanze in the morning, grab lunch, and then hop onto an afternoon trip that runs from around 2 to 5pm. The paddling is nice and relaxing and your body won’t hate you the next day so you’ll be ready to chase some gorillas! We did the trip as the main attraction and it’s totally worth the journey up to Musanze. If you’re planning a weekend in Gisenyi you could even stop in Musanze on the way for a bit of paddling fun, and then continue the at 1.5 hours to Gisenyi afterward. Since Musanze is only about 2 hours from Kigali, canoeing could also be done as a day trip. Restaurants in Musanze can take awhile for food so consider grabbing a packed lunch from Turambe Shoppe to take with you to eat before you go canoeing or stop at Sina Gerard (the rest stop about 45 minutes outside of Kigali) for brochettes and potatoes on the way up. At $35 , the canoeing trip already starts out as a very affordable half day outing but Kingfisher Journeys also offer generous discounts for students, East African citizens and residents, groups (for five or more people), and guests at a selection of hotels. Check out their discounts page for all of the details. Another nice touch is that any discount applies to the entire booking, even if only one person applies. I love being on the water and Kingfisher Journeys really have added something special to everyone living or passing through Rwanda. I haven’t tried kayaking yet but I’m looking forward to giving it a go and the next time I’m in Gisenyi, they [...]

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Though there are many getaway options for a weekend trip from Kigali, visiting the twin lakes in the Musanze region is always at the top of my list. There are several places to stay on Lake Burera and Lake Ruhondo (including the beautiful albeit expensive Virunga Lodge in between the lakes, Foyer de Charitie overlooking Lake Ruhondo, and Ruhondo Beach Resort). However, my undoubtable favorite has to be camping on Ile de Cyuza in the middle of Lake Burera. La Paillotte Gorilla Place in Musanze town, in addition to running a bakery, restaurant, and several guesthouses, also owns Ile de Cyuza (Cyuza’s Island) on Lake Burera. The island covers 14 hectares, and though parts of it are cultivated, a lot of the island is still in a natural state. Vegetable patches and fruit trees, however, abound! The island is also a community-run initiative, benefiting the surrounding town with the proceeds from your stay and the produce from the island. Getting to Ile de Cyuza After making your reservation (email lapaillottegorillaplace@hotmail.com and call 0785 523 561 or 0722 322 066), it’s time to head to Musanze! If you’re driving (lucky you), just head northwest as if you were heading to Gisenyi (google maps has all the information). If you’re taking public transit, hop on a two hour bus from Nyabugogo Bus Station for Rwf 1,200 from Virunga Express. Upon arrival in Musanze, head to the La Paillote restaurant to meet the owner of Cyuza’s Island or one of her staff members. Once you meet them at the restaurant, you can confirm your booking in person and be on your way! If you are driving, they will give you instructions to head to the spot on the lake where you can park your car and then boat across. If you’re taking public transport (as we did), you will walk to the Musanze bus station and take a bus to Rugarama (about 30 minutes of driving). Don’t forget to tell the driver you need to get off at Rugarama, as it is not a specific or official bus stop. The bus tickets are Rwf 500 each way. When you arrive, you will be met by the manager of the island. The bus stop is about four kilometers from the shore of Lake Burera, and you can either walk or hire a moto for about Rwf 1,000. Be warned: this will be the bumpiest moto ride of your life. Upon getting to the shore of the lake, you’ll hop into a small boat and start paddling to the island. This takes about twenty minutes, and you might have to bail out the boat every once in a while along the way. However, it is beautiful. Like really really beautiful. Like maybe we should all move to this island kind of beautiful. At Cyuza’s Island on Lake Burera Upon arrival at Cyuza’s Island, you will take a short (and uphill) five minute walk to the eating area, which is really just a cement and wood open-air room with a thatched roof. It has a beautiful view of the lake, and looks out over the Muhabura volcano. Regarding sleeping arrangements, the camping area is great (and a short walk from the main eating area). It is Rwf 10,000 per person to camp, and they provide the tent, mattress, and pillows if you don’t come with your own. Do, however, bring a sleeping bag or sheets. Since it’s Musanze, it can get pretty chilly at night, so don’t forget the cozy blankets and sweaters! Something to keep in mind: this is not a ‘luxurious’ experience – there aren’t showers, the bathroom is a (well-maintained) compost toilet, and I would advise bringing (and cooking) your own food. However – this place is lovely, good value, and a unique way to spend a weekend in Rwanda! Our view from our tent, as pictured above, is still one of the best views I’ve ever had. Food, Drinks, and Activities We brought our own food and drinks, but it is possible to order food from La Paillotte and have it delivered. They also have coffee and tea available in the eating area. Bring snacks and alcohol if you’re so inclined, as a glass of wine and chocolate at night tastes even better (is that possible?!) under the stars and in the foothills of volcanoes. Though we spent our time on the island relaxing, reading, and swimming, the island can also help arrange a boat ride and other activities in the area. If you’re looking for more to do during your time in Musanze, check out Kingfisher Journeys for canoeing near the gorillas, head to Virunga Lodge for a beer and a great view, hike around the twin lakes, or hike Bisoke volcano (or any of the other amazing volcanos in the area). In love with this Cyuza’s Island yet? Checking your calendar for upcoming free weekends? That’s probably a good call – this island is the best! [WPMAP;305]

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